Hi’
Hope someone can help me with my latest problem.
When I start a new print the usual procedure extruder gets heated then the head moves over the bed and lays a line on print down but does not stop at the end of the bed, It keeps going until it can’t go any further and then the drive motor makes 2 or 3 knocking sounds and then the head goes over to the bed and starts printing. i thought this was normal until i see some youtube vids.

Would be good to get this sorted because i think it might damage my printer.

Kind Regards

Simon

Hi Simon,
I had this before on my Ultimaker 2 with Simplify3D.
The Gcode was all mixed up. After a complete reset, everything was fine.
Which printer and slicer are you using ?

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Hi and thanks for the help.
Im using an ebay “ctc dual extruder mk8” and i’m using MakerWare MakerBot desktop v3.7.0.108.

I have the same problem, waiting for solution

Mine seems ok if i print from sd card ive just realized, But if i print via makerbot desktop then i get this problem.

seems its software related.

This is a maker ware issue. I would update to sailfish and put in the correct build dimensions. I had the same issue. Like someone else said you can go in the settings in the actual machine and put reset and that should fix it. If not upgrade to sailfish.

Hi Eduardo and thanks for helping.
Is there another slicer we could use? because speaking for myself i can’t get my usb to be recognized in “ReplicatorG” i’ve given up trying and maker ware is not good for my printer :frowning:

You can use maker ware, but go reset the printer. Go into setting son the printer and a the way in the bottom hit reset to default.

Also make sure you’re using a newer version of maker ware not the one that comes with the printer

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the currently problem in CTC desk printer is in the dipswitch (final carreer sensor) check this switch, in the normal fucntion this switch shall be turn on a little green ligth, if dont make this step the problem have a source into the pusher of this switch

regards!!

nope not happening for me. i have to use the software that comes with the printer. if i use newer makerware then that’s when i get this problem and even after doing the factory default reset on the printer i still have the problem, So i uninstalled new makerware and installed the older one on the sd card that comes with the printer and all works fine again.

until i can find a solution that works i will just have to use the older version.

I suggest you try and figure out why your USB is not recognized. I has this issue as well and it had nothing to do with my printer it was actually my computer, the USB drivers were malfunctioning. Sailfish is worth it and might just save you having to buy a new motherboard at some point like I did.

I tried to upgrade but now all i get is 2 lines on the lcd and the bed heats up to crazy hot.

These were my steps
1) I stopped the background service in makerware.
2) i used ReplicatorG 0040r30-sailfish.
3) in menus i selected machine driver “Replicator 2x (Sailfish)” and com 4
4) then selected update firmware
5) then selected Makerbot Replicator 2x from the pop up window.
6) Then "Sailfish 7.7 (r1432)
7) select com4
8) Pressed update pressed reset at the back of printer.
9) waited about 1 or 2 mins and “update succeeded”
10) turn printer off for 30 sec then back on and not working :frowning:

Any idea whats i did wrong?

http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/sailfish.html

follow those instructions to the t and you should be ok. First issue I see though is that your putting replicator 2x. The ctc is not a 2x it’s a replicator 1 dual. Also, I suggest you download the latest replicator g an the latest sailfish firmware from that website. If you follow the instructions exactly, it will work. First time I tried it didn’t work and that’s when I had my USB issues that screwed up the drivers.

Also on the firmware selection window make sure you pick the correct processor. Look at your board and look at the number on it

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wow ya thanks Eduardo, it worked, i was so worried i bricked the motherboard lol
7.7 up and running, and i saved the screen shots of the"Homing/VREFs" and most looks the same, but some parts have very different values, so should i use the old values i originally had? or leave it how it is?

here is a pic to show you.
http://i60.tinypic.com/2v0e98z.jpg

The new values I believe to be correct. I will look at mine when I get home. I can tell you that the x tool head offset is wrong. That should be 34mm if I am not mistaken.

edit: All values are correct, change the toolhead offset to 34mm

Morning.
Im almost there now :slight_smile: just one last thing.
in makerware when i go to print, the head no longer goes off the bed and clicks like it did before which was the reason for the thread :slight_smile: woohoo thats awesome and saves my motors.

Now when i print and its doing its heating and instead of moving the head over the bed to start the print, the bed goes all the way down to the bottom then back up to the top, then the print starts. so maybe i need to change a setting? prints come out ok so it just needs a tweek.

That’s the normal starting gcode. You don’t use simplify 3d so there is no way for you to change it. The print head should zero out and the bed come up, the head will move to the front left corner and the bed all the way down, heat up then the head should move to the right front while the bed comes up and it will lay down a line for the anchor.

If you want better prints using mw, download proftweaks to be able to fine tune the print. With proftweak you will be able to change the extrusion multiplier, which is usually too high on these printers, making it over extrude. In thingiverse I uploaded how to calibrate your nozzle. Look for ctc nozzle calibration

" The print head should zero out and the bed come up, the head will move to the front left corner and the bed all the way down, heat up then the head should move to the right front while the bed comes up and it will lay down a line for the anchor. " yes and it use to then go and print, But now it goes back down and straight back up then prints lol.

So it lays down the anchor and then the bed moves down again before it starts printing?