Hello, I am extremely new to this hobby/business and am struggling to sift through all of the information out there to learn how to use this equipment professionally.
I am a Freelance Graphic Designer and Retired Vet so I want to print as a hobby until I am proficient then make an eCommerce print company that makes Custom Cosplay replica items and costume pieces.
Right now I have the M3D micro 3d printer and it isn’t very good. I have the money to invest in a decent one, but dont want to blow the bank on something I can’t even learn to use.
My questions I hope someone will help me with are these:
1. What would be a good printer to invest In? I want something that can print large items and was considering the really big makerbot model. I think it’s the Z18.
My goal is to make replica armor, costume parts, video game items, etc. So I would like something that can print High quality but that I can also add post production art to.
2. What the heck kind of software will let me design things, or change a design I get from someone else? I have a small amount of experience using SketchUp, but it is pretty limited. There is so much out there and I don’t know what goes with what.
3. There are a lot of different kinds of printers out there. Can somebody give me the rundown on what kind might be best for my end goal?
4. does a slicer let me create models or just tell the printer what specs you want? I really don’t know anything about this because M3D has terrible support on their web page and the email customer support isn’t very helpful either.
5. I’m probably forgetting something so any other helpful information would be appreciated.
Hi Jack,
1. Nearly every FDM printer higher then €2000,00 is good, I use a Leapfrog HS which can make quite lage objects.
2. You can do a lot with Sketchup Make or if you want to spent some a pro version . I design a lot in architecture with it
3. You can search for the trend reports which 3DHubs mails to all hubs which gives an indication on the best sold printers
4. A slicer checks your design printabillity and with all features at hand can give you the best setting for your print. this it does automaticlay but the ge the most out of it you will have to experiment in all the settings
5 . As always bad filament gives bad result where PLA is the most friendly to print with
lots of succes
3greetz
GIFT3D
3
Hey nevadajack87,
I agree that there are many printers and software out there, which makes it hard to find the correct one. I’ll do some research for you as I only know about the well known printers. For modeling I use blender. This is a great mesh modeling CAD software. But it does take a bit of getting used to. If you are interested in making replica armour and game items then this is a great place to start. I would suggest that you look for the basic tools like pan and zoom, similar to Sketchup, then as you go along and come across a problem search for a feature you can use. I used to use SketchUp, but moved on to this as it may be used for modeling and animation. It seems complex and overwhelming at a first glance, don’t worry I was a bit intimidated, but once you begin to learn the windows and features it becomes much easier to use. It’s free to download and there are loads of videos on YouTube to help with every need.
You asked about slicers as well. A slicer is the software which cuts your model up into layers, known as G-Code, which tells the printer where to place the filament. It does not actually create the models. The slicer allows you to change the quality of print, the speed and the support materials. I’d advise not to search for the slicer software until you have found a printer as some will not be compatible with the printer you desire.
Apologise for such a long comment, but I hope this helps. Like I said I’ll do some searching, so should get back to you within the next few days. Could you perhaps list a few necessary points like budget and specifications to help narrow down the results. I understand you’d like replicas and such so I’ll consider it when searching. This would be much appreciated.
I hope to hear back from you with any queries and specifications.
No apology necessary. Thank you for the info. I actually downloaded blender but so far all I’ve been able to do is import multiple stl filed to export an stl that prints more items of what I want at once.
Ive seriously thought about that makerbotZ18 but $6500 would considerably cut into my savings and is not open source. I’d prefer something under 4K but don’t know if I can hand the kind that you basically build from scratch.
GIFT3D
5
If you’ve already got Blender then I would suggest going onto YouTube. Look for the simple overview of the tools and functionality of the Windows. You may want to just jump straight into trying to create models, but I made that mistake of trying to do too much. I then had to return to learning the basics and unlearning bad habits. Just saying this so you don’t mirror my mistakes.
When I look through printers I will consider the budget, which is actually quite reasonable. When I got my first my budget was just a few hundred. Constructing your own printer is never a good idea, as so much may go wrong. Unless you have a lot of time on your hands and a decent knowledge of every component, then it could cost more rectifying problems, than you actually save. Many of these DIY printers I’ve heard of have many long term affects if built incorrectly and it can be easy to break parts. They don’t usually come with enclosed pieces which keep the heat in.
One question I would like to know is what size do you mean by big? 200mm cube? Bigger?
I should be able to get back to you in the next few days with what I’ve found.
Hmmmm, I have had experience with an early Z18, and I wouldn’t really recommend it. However, most of the problems I experienced were due to the “smart” extruder, which Makerbot claims to have fixed. Still, I would definitely try and invest in another printer before investing in the Z18.
I hope this small bit of advice helps! (I don’t have experience with Slicers and Printing softwares, so I didn’t answer that question.)
Good Luck!
Jackson
Hi Nevada Jack,
Believe me, I empathize with your situation. Many of us have been there before, so please do not become discouraged. I will try to give you some broad guidance and if you want to talk directly, I may be reached at scott.cahoon@matterhackers.com.
I think that the best way to start is to determine the type of material that you will want to use to make your products. The standard materials out there are plastics such as ABS, PLA and PET as well as Nylon. For a full run down on materials, properties and basic usage, please refer to https://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare. The type of material will determine the specifications for your printer, e.g. heated bed, nozzle temperature, etc.
As far as design software, there are many types of freeware out there that do a pretty decent job. Sketchup has some limitations, but there are others that may meet your needs. A good list of 3D modeling software, their use and limitations may be found at https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/finding-the-right-3d-modeling-software-for-you. In the design class that I teach, I use Onshape. Onshape is a cloud based SaaS and has a freemium type structure for up to 100 MB of storage. Onshape is a company founded and headed by the founders of SolidWorks.
A slicer is nothing more than a program that translates the .STL file (exported file from a 3D modeling software) into machine code (usually g-code) so that the printer can print the model that you designed. The slicer is usually part of or a combination of a software solution that controls the printer. There are many types of slicers out there, some better than others in certain printing configurations, but they all basically act the same.
I do not know where you are located in Nevada, but my suggestion would be to visit a local maker space or fabrication space where 3D printing is utilized. If you are located near Las Vegas, you may want to visit the Local Motors microfactory which utilizes a large form FDM/FFF 3D printer to print car bodies utilizing carbon fiber. Another good makerspace is SYN SHOP located in Henderson and they conduct a lot of different activities to include MeetUps. You may want to check them out.
I hope this helps. Feel free to contact me should you need anything.
Thank you so much. I actually live in Riverside California. I hadn’t fully considered material. I was hoping to find a printer that could work with multiple materials
To work with multiple materials, you will most likely need a heated bed. Therefore, you are looking at a machines that cost anywhere between $500.00 and $3000.00. I am located in Foothill Ranch, CA (southern Orange County) should you like to drop by for a visit and see some of the printers. The address is 27156 Burbank, Foothill Ranch, CA.
Hello ‘nevadajack87’, welcome to the 3D printing community!
1. Check out the Ultimaker 2+ Extended which can do taller prints that the 2+ version. It’s pretty expensive at $3,000 but more than half the cost of the Z18 ($6500). The 2+ Extended (and 2+) come with 4 swappable nozzles and one of them is good for large prints for weapons and armors. Lastly, Ultimaker has great customer service and community to help you get started and get you through any issues along the way. We have the Makerbot Replicator 2 at work and it’s a good printer but like the Z18, it was pricey and not so good in the customer support. Other great printers that are cheaper than the ones listed above are Makergear M2 and the Lulzbot Taz 5. I believe these are kits that you will have to build (hence the lower cost) but like the Ultimaker printers, I’ve heard from too many sources that these two are solid, stable, and reliable printers. These two printers are also rated highly in 3D Hubs’ 2016 Printer Guide - check it out in the ‘LEARN’ section.
2. There are other free 3D modeling software. This is where you’ll have to do some research and testing to see which works for you. I would check out Rhino - easy to learn and also available at a good price. This one may be suitable for what you want to get into since it’s surface modeling program. Also check out ZBrush - slightly cheaper than Rhino. I see a lot of character designers using this program.
3. Refer to my feedback on #1. For what you want to do, SLA is not recommended. They’re great for small, highly detailed prints. The printers listed in #1 are all FDM printers.
4. Slicing programs are not used for creating models. Ultimaker has a good slicing program, Cura. I’ve heard that Simplify3D slicing program is really good but it’s not free but worth it.
5. If you’re not on it already, I recommend creating an Instagram account. A great source for inspiration and tons of artists/designers/makers that you can follow. You can also share your works, share your process, engage with the community, and start to grow a following. Your profile will be a great vehicle to help start your hobby/business. I follow a few artists/designers/makers that make armors, cosplay-related suits & weapons… very cool stuff!
I hope this helps. Btw, I’m also from OC.
GIFT3D
11
Hey nevadajack87,
live found a few printers, but I don’t think the prices are up to date. They are okay for comparing between them thought
Ultimaker 2 ($1999)
Height: 8 inch
Printer bed: 8.8 x 9 inch
No. Nozzles: 1
Resolution: 20 microns
Ultimaker 2 + ($2499)
Height: 8.1 inch
Printer bed: 8.8 x 8.8 inch
No. Nozzles: 1
Resolution: 20 microns
Ultimaker extended ($2349)
Height: 12 inch
Printer bed: 8.8 x 8.8 inch
No. Nozzles: 1
Resolution: 40 microns
The Ultimaker Extended + is the same as above but at $2999 with resolution of 20 microns
Robo 3D R1 ($999)
Height: 8 inch
Printer bed: 9 x 10 inch
No. Nozzles: 1
Resolution: 100 microns
Afinia H800 ($1899)
Height: 8 inch
Printer bed: 8 x 10 inch
No. Nozzles: 1
Resolution: 100 microns
The Cube Trio ($1799.99)
Height: 10.5 inch
Printer bed: 10.75 x 9.5 inch
No. Nozzles: 3
Resolution: 100 microns
Leapfrog Creatr ($2790.33)
Height: 7.9 inch
Printer bed: 9.1 x 10.6 inch
No. Nozzles: 2
Resolution: 50
I hope this helps narrow down which printer you may want so you may make a choice soon. Apologies if the prices are not at their current value. Just in case you are unaware 100 microns is a layer height of 0.1 mm. I hope this helps.
Wow! Thank you so much. That would be great. When would be a convenient time for you?
Just come by any time Monday-Friday from 9:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m. I or someone else will be available.
