1

Hi all,

Currently using a Vertex K4800, printing with 1.75mm PLA from Velleman Manufacturers. Using a Buildtak build plate.

Basically around 70% of my prints are fails as of yet. Adjusting settings after researching and re levelling build plate. But… no joy. Id like to think im preping the prints correctly as to shape and orientation.

The majority of the time its the lack of adhesive on the plate. And a corner of the print raises causing inaccuracies. Other times its the finish being patchy.

I have maintained and clean out the nozzle, adjusted temperature, speed and perimeter thickness’s.

Has anyone reading had these issues and found solutions for this type of printer, build plate and PLA?? If so would you like to share some of your secrets with me and possibly others having similar issues. I will be forever in your debt!

Thanks, PJ

2 Likes
2

Hi

What is the height of the nozzle? I used a feeler gauge and i’m know printing at 0.15mm layer thickness. no corner raises at all.

the temprature of printing is 210°C. just the standard settings from the beginning.

3

Hi PJ,

Have the same printer, but - fortunately - it’s working just fine at my end. When it comes to the prints sticking to the buildtak, I tend to make sure I clean the buildtak with alcohol prior to the print. (Prior to starting, I oil the rods first, then clean the plate). That & making sure the distance between the nozzles & build plate is correct is all I need to do - apparently - to get a good result.

I actually need to make considerable effort at times, to remove the product from the buildtak…

When it comes to product build quality, I’ve used standard settings & that worked just fine. Until I ran into a few repeated clogged nozzles, after which I resorted to some minor changes, but you don’t seem to have that issue at the moment.

You might find this user forum helpful, by the way: http://forum.velleman.eu/

Best regards,

Harry D.

4

Can’t remember temperature but I had a similar problem a while ago with a home made plate. Try upping your first layer temp by ten to fifteen degrees celcius.

5

Hi!

I am using the exact same setup and have no problems.

It is so important to have a perfect distance between nozzle and build platform.

Be sure to have a distance between the nozzle and the build platform of around 1 sheet of paper thick. (±0.1mm)

Set ‘Auto home’ and move the printhead at X and Y axis to every corner and verify that the distance is the same.

Once perfectly levelled, you’ll never have problems again.

Notice: Too less distance will make the printed object stick too much.

So: Brew a cup of coffee or tea and take time to calibrate it perfectly.

I learned, that this is the most important step for printing frustration free objects. :slight_smile:

Regards,

Alex

6

I found that most adhesion issues were caused by bad bed leveling. Run through the bed leveling guide in the wiki again, it is the most important thing to get right.

1 Like
7

Hi PJ!
I got the same printer working here, also got much time spent to adjust and finetune until getting clean prints. I could write a book about this issue now…
But here are the main spots that will cause problems when not adjusted correct… also, order of adjustment is important:
Calibrating printer:
It’s important that all belts get right tension. Too tight causes too much friction and servo motor will fail. Too loose will let belts slip on pulleys.
Setting motor belt tension just loose, no much pressure when fixing x- and y-motors at the case…
Pulley positions on axis are elementary - the two double belt at the motors should better places some inner as outer axis, or the belts will rub against each other abd belts will slip (also got me weeks to focus this problem…)
Doing the right calibration process… unlock all pulleys and belt tensioners, placing the 2 equal distance tools to get extruder axis parallel and fixed to outer axis. (Whithout these 2 distance holder, it’s nearly unpossible to get the printer running properly. )
Set pulley positions as parallel as possible to belt tensioners (and the two double some little inner…) and fix them from motors along e.g. first along x and then along y .changing distance tool orientation between.
Tighten belt tensioner at last, but the tenioners are desinged badly, as belts don’t have to stay pretty loose to work and then tentioner screws are also loose-fitting and will even get more on printing vibrations. I fixed them with 1 little drop of super glue on screw head/case connection.
Pulley fixation is also problem. Care about little set screw ant its thread. It gets damaged quickly and I often got fail prints becaus of one of the pulleys were loose slipping on axis… (but don’t use super glue with them or it will be very diffucult to get them off again)
For me, outer x and y axis did not fit perfectly into their case mount as they are little too short. After printing and changing to endcaps with fine setting distance screw in the middle solved a lot of vibrations, noise and failed prints.
At last after calibrating, table distance has to be set properly. This is done with combination of fine setting screw at z axis mount and handwheels under table. Consider that handwheel screws are not at one of the end positions.
Use the double fold paper slipping test and finetuning screw at back to set distance at orgin first.
Move extruder to each corner and repeat paper test - but only setting height with handwheels below table… paper should get slipped off with almost the same tension everywhere…
Doing testrun: Design and place 3 low surfaces e.g. cylinder at Repetier right above handwheel positions… maybe even print them with brim.
So, you can see, if 1st row gets right height everywhere. Finetune with handwheel until they nicely stay on the table.
Get some machine oil on all axis - they like it.
I also set one program slot in Repetier with a max speed ‘turn around’ routine to get oil dispensed and to test movement functionality…
Hope, that helps any Leonardo Da Vincis, that already could mount this printer :smiley:

2 Likes
8

Hi PJ,

have you correctly calibrated the edges that a pies of paper fits thrue? and have you set the starting layer at 0.20 mm and 30 mm/s?

and what temp is you’re bed and nozzle?

kind regards MK.

9

Hi PJ,

I should add to my earlier response, that using the slicer’s “Brim” & “Raft” options greatly enhance the abilities of the product to stick to the build plate.

Hope this addition helps. :slight_smile:

Cheers,

Harry D.

10

Hey Pj_Doyle, Are you able to provide some pictures of the surface issues you’re getting, and the range of temperaturesyouve tried? Alternatively, here is a page I’ve referenced in the past when I’ve had issues and found to quite helpful. Print Quality Guide | Simplify3D Software

11

Hi PJ,

The first thing you should do is check everything 3DVisio suggested, he explained it very well.

If you still have troubles, you can contact me through my Hub. I can give you my Cura settings that I have got from an engineer at Velleman. My prints turn out very well so maybe it could help you too. I tried to upload it but the extension isn’t allowed by 3DHubs.

Good luck!

12

Hey MK,

Te starting layer height, i set to 0.60 and 10mm/s for extra adhesiveness. I re calibrated more thoroughly and it seems to half worked. Half way through a print and it is sticking much better.

Temp of nozzle is 215 degrees

Thanks PJ

13

Hi Alex,

I re calibrated to Velleman specifications of 2 pieces.

Put much time and effort into it and all seems to be sticking much better now.

thanks for your response,

regards,

PJ

14

Hey Jan,

The nozzel is set at velleman required, 0.35mm. My layer height is 0.105mm.

15

Hi Harry,

Oiling the rod and cleaning the Build Plate is something i have not been doing prior to print.

I will definitely utilise this information…

Thanks for responding.

Regards,

PJ