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Are there hubs the modified there Ultimakers to print with 1.75 mm filament ?

Is it recomended? I own also a Replicator 2, so I have a lot of 1.75 mm filament. I want to stick to 1 kind of diameter.

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In 99% of all printers the hotends only support one specific type of filament (either 3 or 1,75mm) hence you should look towards a different hotend. I would advise to use the e3d hotends (either v6 or volcano), whilst you’re at it you might also find dual extrusion with the Chimera or Cyclops a thing for you, but that will most likely require you to swap out a lot of the electronics.

e3d even supports the Ultimaker temperature sensor PT100 (or whatever it’s called).

e3d is a big company for hotends so I’m sure that some people already have modified their Ultimaker to use e3d hotends and most likely they have even uploaded the files and plans to do all modifications.

e3d hotends are available in 3mm (2,85mm) and 1,75mm, the only difference is the bowden coupling’s size, hence you might have to modify plans that use 3mm hotends so that your smaller 1,75mm coupling fits into the printhead.

Good luck,

Cheers,

Marius Breuer

PS: If you need to print parts for your new printhead I would advise the usage of engineering plastics that can withstand a bit of heat. Filaments to look for are ABS (due to warping maybe useless) and PET to name the most famous ones. NGEN and XT by Colorfabb are really good special kinds of Polyester, which is similar to PET. Especially the fact that both have very low warping might make them attractive for your project.

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Hi @MB3D,

Going to check this !

Thanks for the detailed reply.

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Hi,

I own an Ultimaker 2 and I’ve wondered the same. I think I read a while ago a topic about this on the Ultimaker forums (I can’t find it right now), and I believe someone told he had modded it and the results were good.

You’d need to change the bowden tube and design a piece so it can be inserted where the original 6mm tube goes. That should be easy. Then, I believe the feeder works with 1.75mm, it just pushes the material. The only tricky part would be the nozzle, and specially the PTFE coupler. I once bought some spare parts from China and they sent me a 1.75mm PTFE coupler, so I’m 100% sure you can find them on Aliexpress or similar. The nozzle itself is designed for 3mm filament, so there I don’t know if there would be any kind of problems.

Try inserting some filament and tell us what you get!

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I have not done this myself but plan to on my Ultimaker clone im building.
To do 1.75mm you have to be 1.75mm from end to end… Like mentioned you need to change out the bowden tube or modify it.
You also will need to get a 1.75mm nozzle as well as a 1.75mm teflon isolator…

If you want to go with a Olsson block approach so you can easily swap out the nozzles (recommended)
You will need a 1.75mm sized Olsson block and nozzle’s as well as the bowden and teflon isolator.

There is all the parts you need on sites like ebay and aliexpress… but the 1.75 Olsson block conversion I have only seen here… gr5 store - united states reseller of 3dsolex parts for ultimaker2 ultimaker2+ UM2 UM2+ Ultimaker3 UM3 Raise3D including upgrades, olsson block, nozzles, teflon isolators, ruby and steel nozzles and more.

Like you I have tons of 1.75mm filament from my Wanhao Duplicator 4 I would like to use up. I will likely buy parts to run either 3mm or 1.75mm on my clone printer as I have both filaments now.

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I have built a Ultimaker 2 Clone since my last comment… its running 1.75mm and working great.