The plate seems to be a mineral plate. I will give it a try without bluetape. If it still sticks too good, I will buy a glas plate which I can dismount easily.
I will let you know if I have success 
Thanks for your reply!
Yep I tried that too, but this works fine if I heat up to 120°C. The problem is, the parts deform very much when they are warm and I touch them.
My actual project is to print parts for a quadcopter. They have to be very accurate, so I can’t need any deformation 
Wiktor
6
Hi, I had the same problem and bought a glass plate which I tape at the moment to on top of that blue sheet provided. I am also now experimenting with applying blue painters tape on glass and hairspray. I think its worth having smth that is removable as its easier to remove prints saftly if you do it outside the printer. I have contacted flashforge if they sell the glass for dreamer but they said that I don’t need it for the dreamer…
Good to know, that flashforge is in charge to know what we really need 
Ever tried to print on the heatbed without any plates or tapes? I think I will try this first. Otherwise I need to buy a glass plate. But the temperature will be distorted then.
Hey there! There was a discussion on this earlier as well- Check it out: Talk Manufacturing | Hubs. The attached picture was provided as a solution maybe ^^
I cut 1/8 phenolic plates and clip them to the heat bed. Once the part I’d complete the phenolic plate is removed and since it is flexible it pops right off. I have found that all filament types easily stick to class 10 phenolic. I use hairspray for PLA and T-Glass and Elmer’s glue stick for ABS and Nylon.
I use the same “blue tape” that came with the flashforge. I LOVE it, but yes it is a pain sometimes to get a part off. I don’t have an issue with this anymore though. This is what I do. 1st) I print with S3D and start with 60C heated bed for first layer, then I drop it by ~5C each additional layer or two. I don’t know what slicer you use but I would give that a shot.2nd) i use a loose razor blade (so it can lay flat against the bed) to just get part of the blade under any part of the printed part. I then leave it there under the part and get a thin metal spatula and put it under the razor blade and move it around under the part till it pops. Hope this helps. My word of advice is don’t get rid of the “blue tape”/buildtak that comes with the printer it does work a lot better than glass. I switched out the blue tape (which again isn’t really tape http://www.flashforge-usa.com/shop/flashforge-pre-cut-blue-heat-plate-print-tape.html) for glass and found myself digging the blue tape out of the trash and re-applying it.
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Glass bed McMaster-Carr
1/4" z stop spacer
Purple can of Auqu Net hairspray (apply while hot)
Bed temp 80C
The part will hold nice and tight when the bed is hot. When the plate cools down, the part will pop off on its own.
Rumor has it, sugar water works well and holds up for multiple prints.
Wiktor
16
Is PLA ok with such high bed temperature?
Wiktor
17
where can I buy phenolic plates in UK?
I am using a mirrored tile (Ikea Sorli) heated to 80 deg C and cleaned with Isopropyl Alcohol. The PLA extrudes at 210 deg C. Sticks very well during printing with zero turn ups. Impossible to remove until the glass is at room temperature. The parts just snap off. No more blue tape, glue sticks, hairspray or sugar syrup for me…
if you use cura you can add a brim to your print, which is basicly a thin layer beneath your print. This makes it for me very easy to remove everything. I then cut off the brim or even just tear it off sometimes. Works like a charm!
your bed level is maybe too low
preheat your bed to 70-80° after print help to remove it
As many others have said, get a piece of glass cut and ground. With a heated bed, you shouldn’t need to mess with the blue painter’s tape. I typically don’t need to apply anything to my glass bed when printing PLA.
For ABS, I use a slurry of ABS shavings and acetone and for nylon filaments (Taulman Bridge), I’ve had good luck with some white Elmer’s glue (or any PVA glue) diluted with water and lightly brushed on the glass.
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I print PLA on my flashforge 3D printer, with heated bed and capton tape on my glass bed plate. I have not had any problems with PLA sticking like hell. I do wait for the bed temperature to go back down to room temp and wait for at least 20 minutes more before I remove my part. Although with ABS I have that problem, so I had to wait more than 40 minutes for heated bed to cool off and another 30 minutes for me to remove my part almost without any force needed. The tip here I think is to wait for the heated bed to cool off and part as well, before trying to remove it. Once I tried force removing the part and I ended up with a chip-off glass plate.
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just replace the blue painters tape and take the print off and let is sit next to a cooling fan PLA does stick as hell, that is true but that is what i do
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