That’s a very unconventional question, but I print parts on my Flashforge Dreamer and have the factory default Bluetape (I think it’s bluetape) on my heatbed. After finishing them the parts sticks on the heated as hell… Some parts sticks so hard, that I destroyed them by loosing them. Can anyone give my some hints about that problem?
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I’d switch from blue tape to a piece of glass from your local hardware store, PLA should stick enough even without coating if perfectly leveled. Else, with some airspray. Advantage is after the print you can just take the plate, turn it upside down and run cold tap water on it. It will pop in no time. You may also let the plate rest on a flat floor if it is a mineral one. Again, it will that just a few minutes to hear the pop and get a perfectly flat part 
Also, You’ll need to let your z-stop know that your plate is thicker by adding a small piece of the same thikeness as the glass plate between the contacter and the plate.
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I get this from time to time and what I do is actually to slightly warm up the heatbed until the print let go from the heatbed. No violence needed
The plate seems to be a mineral plate. I will give it a try without bluetape. If it still sticks too good, I will buy a glas plate which I can dismount easily.
I will let you know if I have success
Thanks for your reply!
Yep I tried that too, but this works fine if I heat up to 120°C. The problem is, the parts deform very much when they are warm and I touch them.
My actual project is to print parts for a quadcopter. They have to be very accurate, so I can’t need any deformation 
Wiktor
6
Hi, I had the same problem and bought a glass plate which I tape at the moment to on top of that blue sheet provided. I am also now experimenting with applying blue painters tape on glass and hairspray. I think its worth having smth that is removable as its easier to remove prints saftly if you do it outside the printer. I have contacted flashforge if they sell the glass for dreamer but they said that I don’t need it for the dreamer…
Good to know, that flashforge is in charge to know what we really need 
Ever tried to print on the heatbed without any plates or tapes? I think I will try this first. Otherwise I need to buy a glass plate. But the temperature will be distorted then.
Hey there! There was a discussion on this earlier as well- Check it out: Talk Manufacturing | Hubs. The attached picture was provided as a solution maybe ^^
I cut 1/8 phenolic plates and clip them to the heat bed. Once the part I’d complete the phenolic plate is removed and since it is flexible it pops right off. I have found that all filament types easily stick to class 10 phenolic. I use hairspray for PLA and T-Glass and Elmer’s glue stick for ABS and Nylon.
I use the same “blue tape” that came with the flashforge. I LOVE it, but yes it is a pain sometimes to get a part off. I don’t have an issue with this anymore though. This is what I do. 1st) I print with S3D and start with 60C heated bed for first layer, then I drop it by ~5C each additional layer or two. I don’t know what slicer you use but I would give that a shot.2nd) i use a loose razor blade (so it can lay flat against the bed) to just get part of the blade under any part of the printed part. I then leave it there under the part and get a thin metal spatula and put it under the razor blade and move it around under the part till it pops. Hope this helps. My word of advice is don’t get rid of the “blue tape”/buildtak that comes with the printer it does work a lot better than glass. I switched out the blue tape (which again isn’t really tape http://www.flashforge-usa.com/shop/flashforge-pre-cut-blue-heat-plate-print-tape.html) for glass and found myself digging the blue tape out of the trash and re-applying it.
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Glass bed McMaster-Carr
1/4" z stop spacer
Purple can of Auqu Net hairspray (apply while hot)
Bed temp 80C
The part will hold nice and tight when the bed is hot. When the plate cools down, the part will pop off on its own.
Rumor has it, sugar water works well and holds up for multiple prints.
Wiktor
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Is PLA ok with such high bed temperature?
Wiktor
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where can I buy phenolic plates in UK?
I am using a mirrored tile (Ikea Sorli) heated to 80 deg C and cleaned with Isopropyl Alcohol. The PLA extrudes at 210 deg C. Sticks very well during printing with zero turn ups. Impossible to remove until the glass is at room temperature. The parts just snap off. No more blue tape, glue sticks, hairspray or sugar syrup for me…
if you use cura you can add a brim to your print, which is basicly a thin layer beneath your print. This makes it for me very easy to remove everything. I then cut off the brim or even just tear it off sometimes. Works like a charm!
your bed level is maybe too low
preheat your bed to 70-80° after print help to remove it
