Hi everyone, I am trying to get this little bugger to print and have been experimenting.
PLA at 200 nozzle temp, .2 MM Layer Height
Slowed the speeds down and have dropped temp. Increased fill to 40%
Some prints come out fantastic, this one is troubling me.
The 2 blue ones were doe together and the loops are improved.
Hatchbox filament for the blue, makerbot on the orange.
Any tips? I am close but missing something. I believe I am pretty well calibrated
Printed on a home built I3 Prusa kit and MK8 extruder sliced with Slic3r
Thanks!!
Joel
6 Likes
Hello,
Not sure if this will help for sure, but when using PLA you need a fan to cool the layers. Some of the layers look like they oozed a bit, while others didn’t merge with the lower layer. Some times on small items like Marvin, your extruder movements don’t allow your fan to cool the whole layer. So I personally would try and get a small fan and set it by it during the print to see if it helps. Also at the loop on top, lower your speed dramatically, and your temp a bit to give those layers time to set.
hope this helps ><
Great I will give the fan a shot. I have something I can rig up
Thanks again
CHANGING COLOUR CAN BE A BIG TWEEK IN SETTINGS …FOR INSTANCE TRY PRINTING BLACK. I STRUGGLE WITH BLACK AND IT CLOGS UP MY NOZZLE EVERY TIME. ALSO MAKE SURE THE QUALITY OF THE PLA IS GREAT. IE/ FORM FUTURA OR COLOUR FABB.
Miro
5
Definitely a cooling problem get a fan and duct and point it at nozzle or just bellow. If your heater block is not insulated your heater might struggle to keep up, depending where your airflow is pointed. Also centrifugal fans work better than axial for this purpose.
I setup a fan on the table, seems to be better. this little bugger is tricky but looks ok now…
Hi, filaments have different properties, MakerBot filament is normally printed relatively hot for PLA at around 215 degrees, so assuming your nozzle temperature is accurately calibrated, this would be a good starting point. Then, if you have no blockages, you should be able to print at a higher speed, as the filament should flow better, and the nozzle won’t dwell so long on the small top surface to cause deformation. Finally, is all your cooling on the model coming from one side? More all-round cooling prevents curling up on one side.
Tomaz
8
Print 4 Marvins at once at 185 degrees C. Use a cooling fan or 2. Also judging from the orange Marvin your retract may be to short.
KDan
9
I’d suggest the following…
Quality of the filament is suspect. Inconsistent extrusion rate. A very common problem.
Also, check your drive wheel to make sure it isn’t partly clogged with filament particles.
Bed temp might be to high (seems to have bears foot). Also the bottom of the “ears” have sucked inward.
This could also be a symptom of high bed temp, inadequate cooling, and insufficient infill.
A layer cooling fan - preferably one that you can control via your slicer G-code - will help tremendously with PLA.
You can also setup your slicer to automatically slow down the print speed when the layer printing time becomes to short. A good minimum speed is around 10mm/sec. I would not print Marvin at a print speed of greater than 40mm/sec overall.
Tricks - like printing multiple objects, or a simple block of the same height nearby will also give you more cooling time between layers.
Thanks I have been going thru all these steps. Filament is makerbot which is what Staples had in stock and Hatchbox.
I set the extrusion length, I can reconfirm but I think I have it right.
What do you guys use for printing and slicing?
Bed temps?
I need to pick up some abs. I have a fan now which I didn’t before. The heat sink on the MK8 wasn’t drilled with 4 holes so the fan on the extruder is just cooling the heatsink. I rendered the diverted on thingiverse.
Slic3r and Repetier here
I’m using an I3 with Ramps 1.4
Thanks again for all your help
