OK, its kinda looks good in this picture but it worse when you see it for yourself.
I did try to print more slowly but it doesn’t seem to have any effect .
most of the times are the lines all the round and kinda even
but sometimes is front with big lines and the back side is kinda good!
SOC3D
2
What type of printer?
Try printing these:
320micron (xytest3) ;
240micron (xytest2);
150micron (xytest);
at the listed layer heights and see if the wobble gets better or worse. (you only need 1/4 inch or so printed I think the models are 1" high)
This will also tell you if you have an issue with your x axis, your y axis or z-wobble.
Remember to mark the sides of the model so you know which way they were facing on the print bed.
XYTest_0.stl (2.43 KB)
XYTest3.stl (2.43 KB)
XYTest2.stl (2.43 KB)
thanks for this I will test this prints.
I have Geeetech Prusa i3x
150micron (xytest); ok its looks better. and the first 50 layers are perfect then.
its little bit more in the x-axis so I kinda don’t know what this can be
Z wobble
SOC3D
5
If the layers are shifting more on one axis you may need to tighten that belt. If you print that same thing and lower the z speed to about half of what it is you might get even better results. Can you grab a picture or describe the z coupler attaching the stepper to the threaded rod? (I’m assuming based on the prints it’s 8mm threaded rod not leadscrew). And is the z rod free floating at the top or constrained?
1 Like
yes you are 100% right about how it is
I did change the z road, though, bought one new stepper and drilled a hole in the top, be cause that was the solution people were saying was working for them.
SOC3D
7
Nice. So two more questions, that x carriage has a nut on the bottom and a hole on the top, is the hole on the top of the x carriage tight on the threaded rod or is there some wiggle room? Second, when you attached the coupler to the motor shaft and threaded rod was there (is there currently) vertical space between the stepper shaft and the z-rod or are they touching in the coupler?
1. nut on the bottom and there is a wiggle room on the top of the printer.
2. currently I did not leave any space. between the road and the motor shaft end.
each time I change the roads it seems to be printing really well then the next print will have lines.
maybe I should just try print new x carriage.
with a leadscrew style, T8 treated roads.
SOC3D
9
Oddly enough, lead screw will not solve your problem. It will make the problem less noticeable. Just remember to add M92 or whatever the gcode is to fix your z steps per mm if you do change. You need some space between the motor shaft and the threaded rod or leadscrew if you upgrade (they are $12.95 on amazon) so that the flex coupler can flex. I think with the larger hole on the top you made, printing at a higher resolution 150 micron vs 240 or 320 and slowing down your z speeds and letting those flex couplers flex a bit you’ll see a huge improvement in print quality. You can try one of the 248+ anti z wobble carriages and braces online and keep trying for the rest of your life. Though I highly recommend against it. Keeping in mind it’s a geetech not a couple thousand dollar printer or even a Joseph prusa prusa ($599 kit $899 calibrated and assembled) I think you’ll get some decent quality prints.
SOC3D
10
I forgot to mention, and I have not tried this, upgrading to 10mm smooth rod and 8mm lead screw or 5mm threaded rod may also drastically improve print quality. The goal is for the carriage to be held in place really firm by the smooth rods. Using 8mm smooth and threaded does not accomplish this very well. You could go crazy like I did and stick an Oldham coupler between the motor and threaded rod as well. Or customize an Oldham coupler to have the nut on the x carriage. Just make sure it’s a locking coupler or a bottom mount one. And remember that if it’s not locking you need to turn off z-lift on retract.
I manage to fix this. with a simple thing now it prints like 3000$ dollar printer.
