I don’t know how well you can see it but the banding is the layers changing width. For instance, the lighter green is where the layers are not as wide as the darker areas. This appears on both sides.
I printed this in a different color and it came out nice. These flat sides are quite rough do to the irregular layer width.
This is a new roll of PLA, just opened.
210 nozzle
60 bed.
If your other colors are printing differently, you may try adjusting your settings for green. Either the green dye is bonding differently or it has a different thermal property. it is hard to tell from the image, but if your errors are appearing more in the larger zones, that’s usually an indication of shrinking differences, and the shrinking differences are a result of thermal variances during cooling. If I knew how to solve that, I would. Either you change your printing speed to produce more or less time between cooling layers, or you change your hot end temperature which changes how well each layer bonds, with higher temperatures penetrating to deeper layers but also become more likely to shrink. Changing the bed temperature won’t do much of anything for the upper layers. If its sinking it could be your infill %. Changing your infill pattern itself may cause the long lines to form less.
I’m no expert, and your print already looks cleaner than anything I’ve got with my Frankenstein kit.
Thanks. A lot of what you said make some sense.
I am going to try with running at 190 which is where I had run this brand of filament. I ran my Hatchbox yellow at 210 and it came out real nice so I didn’t really think to change it.
