I have the ctc dual extruder 3D printer , well I have two of them , one has started failing when it moves to the far left back corner of the print bed , it stalls , only msg on screen is loads of code , oh yeah and when I start a print the head moves along and goes back and forth making a horrid juddering sound , I can’t pin point where it’s coming from , it’s searching for the switch but doesn’t get there , it also sometimes prints and it gives shifting layers in the patterns , my other one has now started doing the same , that prints right to the top of the model and layer shifts at the top again , any help on this would be appreciated I’m really stuck ,

2 Likes

Hello Drigden,

Our first 3D printer was a CTC dual extruder, we found it to be a wonderful machine that prints higher quality than our Cube Pro, but when it has problems they are not minor.

That being said, we did experience the same problem you have and where able to correct it. We identified the source of the problem to be from the wires that connect the limit switch and servos. We ran new lines around the back of the machine and have them come in from above similar to how the filament tubes are ran.

Once you have it working I suggest running it slowly, the prints will take a bit longer but not only will they come out amazing, the machine will not self destruct on you.

We have also identified some other fixes that can turn your $500 investment into one that compares to a $5,000 investment. If you email us at contact@catalystspace.org I would be glad to send some pictures of what I described above and help you get the printer up and running again.

Hope this helps!

That would be amazing Thankyou

I had a similar issue with one of my Replicator 2s. After about 1300 hours on that machine, the X axis ribbon cable had moved back and forth so much that it cause a break in one of the wires in the cable. To verify the problem, I put my printer in jog mode and manually moved the extruder around while wiggling and bending the ribbon cable until I found where the break was. I found this amazing fix on thingiverse that replaces the ribbon cable for the stepper motor and the cable for the end stop with a single Cat 5e ethernet cable. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:217494 Let me know if you have any questions!

-Jared

Why don’t you post your tips and pictures here so the whole community can benefit?

Firstly I would like to apologise , we were not deliberately keeping secrets , I don’t know what kind of tips and help is required so instead I’ll tell my experiences and fixes

i run run ctc makerbot replicator dual extruder ----------- makerbot desktop software

I’ve had every problem under the sun , but these printers are fantastic so I bought more more of them , if you sell the things you make then your printers are constantly getting battered around , I have mine running 18 hours a day , so turn print speeds right down , travel speed right down , you will find a lot of vibration will go away , they will run smoother , unfortunately your prints take longer but you have less down time , if you have got a factory printer , first thing is to look for upgrades , I myself sell a lot of these upgrades , including the spooler I have put pictures up of , this is my prototype so couldn’t be bothered tidying it up , I wanted to fit the real bearing and see how it worked , the ones I sell are immaculate and well , awesome , the pla rolls smooth because of the filament guide tubes , no jerking no printer jerking all over , I sell these spoilers for £45 free delivery , that includes the tubing and metal bearings , most of the parts on these printers are cheap , I mean like the pulleys are plastic and certain other parts need upgrading as well , I change all my plastic stuff to metal , get new pulleys , eventually these will crack and you will get shifting patterns , nozzles , if they are original run them until they block then chuck them and buy better nozzles , I run mk9 nozzles they are thin and work ten million times better , I’ve not had a blockage for ages ,

if you get a blockage , don’t mess about , take nozzle off and Ptfe out , chuck away , put new in and get printer back working ,

cause of blockage , OK main ones , don’t pull the filament out quickly when changing it , do this really slow and actually notice how much pla comes out , it’s unbelievable how much you leave in when you pull it out quickly

after you finish a print , don’t just turn off the machine , always wait for the fans to stop first ,

never let the filament run out and go through , I always do a change wen I have a inch left , this can be difficult to time right but I always have small things I can print when the reel is coming to an end

set up a maintenance plan on your printer , cleaning of rods , drop of oil on them , that sort of thing , these machines won’t run forever unless you look after them , listen to your machines sounds , when something goes wrong most of the time you hear a change or see more vibration , then you know something is wrong ,

spend time I me levelling your build plate , I do it three times in a row to make sure it is level , and the paper teqhnique I make sure I can feel the paper dragging , the closer you can get without scratching the plate the better , keep checking this , don’t think that now it is level it is staying that way , again set a plan , I check my plates every second day , but I run mine a lot

ok what else , supports are great but see how they hold your model if they are leaving marks that’s no good , debt into settings and make adjustments to your support density , same with the raft , I use raft every now and then on certain things and if you set the settings right , the raft will just peel off in your hands , look at raft density , get into your settings and learn as much as you can , that is where it all happens , if this has bored anyone I apologise again , just thought it couldn’t hurt

3D printing is amazing !!!

Print problems , print not sticking to bed , don’t print straight onto the gold kapton tape , get some blue painters tape and a roll of pritt stick , make sure you put the tape on before you level your bed

or buy a upgraded glass print bed , I’ve also heard of people using a type of plastic one now , when print finishes you pull out the whole tray and you can bend the plastic enough for your model to come off cleanly

temp , I run mine at 210 and print bed at 80 , I am using pla , if you use abs , I believe needs to be higher and you need to turn your fans off , I’m not keen on using abs , it’s a lot better than pla but I have kids so not wanting toxic smell everywhere