At the end of my tether and about to put a hammer through the machine and hurl it out of a window!

I bought the machine new (my 2nd printer, I have a PrintrBot Simple I bought to ‘learn’ on) about a week ago and had really great success with it out of the box.

Printed the ‘whistle’ example and its brilliant.

I hadnt changed a SINGLE setting and now I just get total failure over and over and over again. The first layer of ABS wont stick to the build plate. Just gets pulled off straight away.

Ive tried PLA and the same thing happens - doesn’t even stick to the bed, just balls up under the extruder head and gets pulled around the platform.

Ive re-levelled it a million times and im just waiting for it to cool down to replace the blue-sticker that comes with it - once it started failing the first time I put a bit of pritt-stick down and since then nothing has happened at all, so I think Ive ruined the blue-sticker. But if it only lasts for 3 prints anyway what the hell is the point?

The next move is to buy a glass bed kit, but as I cant print a single thing I cant print the shim to stop the nozzles slamming into it.

If it wasnt clear, this is really p***ing me off. I need the machine to produce prototype parts and I cant get it to produce so much as a single layer of f*****g ABS/PLA without messing up.


230 nozzle, 110 bed.


195 nozzle, 60 bed.

Could the machine be running too quickly? (out the box settings, Replicator Duel selected on the software)

And to cap it all off - the Makerware software is a steaming pile of dog-dirt too. All I get is constant error messages when im trying to slice anything onto the SD card. Im using ReplicatorG and it works ok, it just looks horrible and I dont like using it. haha

I would be so appreciative of any help you guys can provide!

OH - and when I go to generate the g-code in Replicator G, I get a message about accelerated build speeds (which is ON on the machine) and Print-O-Matic is selected.

I turned off Raft because the things I need to print cant have one.

I started having that issue too recently and after trial and error figured out it’s all about the bed leveling and specifically the distance from the nozzle to the bed for the first layer. I’m not sure why I started having problems with it now when it’s been working great for a couple of months but it could be wear on the machine or something. What I sometime end up doing is adjusting the bed level on the fly while the first layer is printing. When I see it works I cancel the (failed) print, clear the bed and restart. It can also be worth adjusting the height of the first layer. Finally I would recommend buying Simplify3D. It works better than any other slicing software I’ve tried and reduces the possible error sources. It is well worth the money.

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Have to agree with Invize on the Simplify3D purchase. Replicator G will always throw up the warning about accelerated build speeds, but it is usually nothing to worry about. How are you leveling the bed? With 1 sheet of 9x11 paper? Do you move the heads just above the leveling screws? Personally, I use 2 sheets of paper for .2mm prints and 1 sheet of paper for .1mm prints. I only level just above the 3 screws, this seems to save a lot of frustration. I personally use a temp of 230°C / 105°C ABS and 217°C / 50°C PLA. Feed rate I use is default 60 mm/sec in S3D. Also, it is good to have the nozzle purge in your starting G-Code, this will save you a lot of pre-load frustration. If you share a model I could slice it for you in Simplify3d and post it back up to see if that helps.

Use simplify 3D or Cura. Makerware is stupid and I agree with replicator-G. It looks like something I wrote in visual studio in high school.

I have a glass bed coming in today for it. I have had a couple little issues with bed adhesion, but thats typical on all my printers until I put a glass bed on it, then they’re flawless.

Here is what I’ve been doing until my plate gets here, and hopefully you can too to print glass bed parts.

PLA: blue painters tape works great. I level it without the tape on so that when I do put the tape down, it’s that much higher into the nozzle. I’ve never had issues with PLA using this and I get amazing results. So much so, the print sticks to the bed so much that it pulls the tape off with it. No biggie, tape is cheap and quick to replace.

ABS: I hate ABS. ABS will not stick to the painters tape, I’ve tried everything including printing rafts. It will stick to kapton tape for 2 maybe 3 prints then I have to replace it. Kind of a PITA but I dont print ABS much at all and I know the glass bed will resolve me having to use the kapton tape (all tape actually).

I have my 1st layer speed set to 30% of my print speed which I found helps on all printers on all surfaces. You’re temps look right. I print ABS at 220-230c at 110c bed, PLA at 190c at 65c bed. Fan is never on for ABS, PLA it’s at 0% for layer 1, then 100% for layer 2 and after. I also printed a fan shroud that almost surrounds both nozzles.

Get a glass bed. If you need parts printed for it, hit me up. I’ll be happy to print and send to a fellow FFCP owner. I’ll only charge shipping.

How do you get Cura to work with the flash forge? Every time I try and slice something in Cura and then convert it over to a file that my flash forge will read it looses something and causes the printer to do things I really don’t want it to. I’ve tried tweaking settings in Cura and rep g. I have the same problem trying to use slic3r.

Do yourself a big favor and just get Simplify 3D and be done with all of it. It’s worth it.


I’ll sell the printer before I spend money on simplify 3d.

Ive had my creator pro for just over 10 months and ive changed a few things, I only use abs not pla and print on a glass bed, I use 1/4" borosilicate glass with the gold kapton tape on that also I use a acetone and abs filament mix to make a sort of glue, prints always stick and have a nice finish on the bottom Abs print temp 220-230 extruder Build plate always 105 c Im using the makerbot software and I print between .20-.25 layer thickness First layer print speed 30mm/s rest of layers between 60-90 I would highly recommended getting a glass build plate as I had the same problems with prints not sticking, or being unreliable. Blue painters tape is garbage

I’ll buy it if you’re serious.

Did you use the GPX plugin after you process your gcode in Cura or slic3r? GitHub - whpthomas/GPX: Gcode to x3g conversion post processor, this runs from a command line and is pretty simple

You didn’t mention if you also cleaned it. Releveling is important, but cleaning just as well. I have the dreamer, with the same blue sticky pad I think you mention. Every 3-4 prints I wipe it down with isopropylalcohol to clean it off. The one time I couldn’t be bothered, by print 5-6 or so, it just fell off. Relevel and clean, best I can suggest.

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Hi guys - ive had a successful day! I realised that my bed levelling was wrong - I was levelling it so the nozzles were off the paper, rather than just scraping it. This simple change made a huge difference!

The other BIG change was to slow the speeds down - so my Feedrate mm/s was 41, I changed it to 30, and my Travel Feedrate was 56 so I changed that to 36. The first layer or two go down real nice, and then once I see its working I speed it up a touch in the menu settings and its been fantastic.

Really looking forward to getting the glass bed kit that I ordered today as I had ABS turn up in the post!

Ill look into Simplify3D as so many have recommended it!

Just reading through these comments shows me how knowledgeable and kind everyone is, I really appreciate all your comment! Biggest lesson of the day is to eat breakfast. My brain doesnt work without food!

Cheers again :smiley:


Hey, glad to see you have it working better now.

If it helps at all, I have a set routine that I have used for the last dozen or so prints that seems to work like a charm for consistent adhesion as well as good, easy release using the blue 3M pad. This is using ABS by the way.

Before every print, I take a paper towel and dab some isopropyl rubbing isopropyl alcohol (70% alchohol type) and give the blue pad a nice rub down. If there are any remnants of plastic on the pad I also take a dab of pure acetone on a paper towel and clean it off. Then next I take a new paper towel and give it four or five squirts of “Garnier Fructis” hairspray (“ultra-strong” hold level “4”) and wipe down the pad. Now I do both of these steps when the pad is cold. After that I start the pre-heating sequence. Within a few seconds of the pre-heating, I take the paper towel, give it another four or fives squirts, then dab the area where the print will be going…making sure to leave more hairspray down than soak it up.

After all of that is done and pre-heating is complete, I’ll start the print. I take some tweezers and pluck any remaining plastic from the nozzle just before it gets ready to print just in case. The prints lay down nice and stick right away. Depending on the scale of the print I will sometimes open the front door and add some cooling using a small fan from about two feet away.

Once the print is done, I take a fine edge scrapper and tap firmly at the base of the print while holding it steady with the other hand. After a few taps the prints just pop off the pad…no fuss no muss!

Anyways, I hope this helps you out some. I learned the hard way about the best methods to adhere to the blue mat. Before I figured out this method, I ruined the pad that came when it shipped after 4 or 5 prints because I tried using ABS “juice” to coat the pad. Even with a super thin coating, when I pulled the print up, it took half the blue pad with it…haha!

Good printing!

How do you set the first layers to go slower? I cant seem to find any speed settings in RepG

hey buddy, try a different slicer like Cura. Also helps to try some hairspray on your printer bed for extra adhesion.

Hey, Sorry to hear you’re having problems. I run a FlashForge Dreamer and get consistent prints. I found for the best success it first comes down to making sure your bed is level but with the correct amount of clearance for the nozzles.

I use the calibrate feature and take a piece of printer paper and slide it back and forth while adjusting the bed until a noise can be heard from the paper dragging. I normally try to level my bed off two or three times right in a row to make sure they are all adjusted. Too tight and it won’t apply right, too loose and the prints won’t stick either. Once you’re sure the bed is adjusted correctly. You can use two different techniques. My favorite for PLA is blue painters tape and hair spray. I don’t recommend heating the bed at all. I used a heated bed with hairspray and PLA and could barely get my prints off the bed! For ABS blue painters tape and a heated bed is required. ABS is much harder to get to stick without warping. I now print mostly with just PLA on a glass bed. The glass is nice as you can clean and prep it outside of your machine. I use 70 heated bed and just hairspray and it gives great prints!

Don’t give up, the Creator Pro is a great printer, I would double check the bed has the correct clearance, then try to run PLA with painters tape and hairspray. Also, I would run FlashForge Print software. I use Simplify3D and it is fantastic and worth the money.

Hi Josh,

First of all, I am really sorry to hear your bad experience with the said printer I hope the following suggestions would help.

1. Take a break, like about an hour or more just to cool your self down, this helps believe me I’ve been there.

2. Buy glass plate that fits your heating bed, you can get this from picture frames.

3. As for the spacer you may buy it online, or as long as the spacer you are placing is as thick as your glass plate anything would do as long as it fits at the back of the zed axis, there are a lot of instructional video online to show where to put the spacer.

4. Use adhesive to print straight to glass, like hairspray. Spray on the glass at least 3 coats while glass is cold.

5. I use silicon tape to keep the glass from sliding but if it is not available to you, you may use clips, just make sure it is not located where the extruder nozzle travels.

6. Re level your build plate, I know it is frustrating but since you installed a glass plate, there is no way around it.

7. Preheat build plate to 110 C and Nozzle to 230C , wait for at least five minutes, then hit print.

8. Do not remove the printed object right after printing, you have to allow it to cool down to room temperature. You may hit the bottom of your printed object with a chisel if it does not come off.

Hope this solves your problem. I have the same printer but with a glass build plate, it works fine, but my problem right now is the opposite of yours, since I am having problems in removing the printed objects. Good luck and don’t give up.

Experiment with raft to see if you get that to stick as a base.

How much are you offering? I need something practical and this printer just isn’t meeting the needs I have. I’ve got way too much money and time invested in this to invest anymore. I’d rather sell it and recoup the losses. I still owe some money on the printer so that is a major factor for me. If you’re interested send me an email directly,