I’m having a serious problem with first-layer adhesion my relatively-new FFCP (2016 model). After running a number of successful prints, I suddenly cannot get ANY type of material to ‘stick’ to the build table. I’m using Simplify3D as my slicer, have double-and-triple checked every temperature, feed rate, and print speed setting, have cleaned (and eventually replaced the BuildTak film with a new one), and have used DrLex’s “Extended Bed Leveling Code” for the FFCP to verify the bed is as level as I can make it – I’m getting good friction at each of the nine ‘probe’ points in his “bed probe” gcode. I’m using the “Square and Circle” model from Thingiverse as my test print (Square and Circle by cbruner - Thingiverse), an extremely simple model that doesn’t require a raft or any supports. I can’t even get the skirt to adhere, much less the first layer. I can give exact print settings if it will help, but the essentials are that I’m printing with PolyMax PLA at 220C, print speed of 3600mm/min, with the bed heated to 60C.
I’m very new to 3D printing and know I have a tremendous learning curve still in front of me, but this issue is driving me nuts. I’ve followed the advice of MANY different web articles, with no real change in my results. I should note this happens with ABS material as well (with bed and extruder temps adjusted appropriately).
Does anyone have a suggestion what I might try? (I have a borosilicate glass plate on order and I have a roll of Kapton tape, but I haven’t messed with that yet).
-M.
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Personally I would throw away all the bed level stuff and just go with the good old fashioned piece of paper and manually level it. Simplest way.
Make sure the bed is clean. Alcohol wipes are good. See what the first layer settings are. PLA should as a starting point be, height = 90, width = 100 and speed 50%.
Load the Flashforge Creator Pro profile into S3D, the defaults are pretty good. Turn the speed way down to start with.
Hi Mark.
Every printer is a little different, but on my FFCP clone (QIDI Tech), the bed temp for PLA works best at 45ºC.
You’ve probably already messed with the temp, but I thought I’d let you know what works for me.
I have not played with bed temperatures yet – I knew it mattered for ABS, but thought it didn’t matter much for PLA. I’ve been running at 60C for PLA, so I’ll lower it and give that a try. Thanks!
I’ve done all of those things, including cleaning the bed with isopropyl alchohol between attempts. Those are exactly my settings for PLA.
I’ve since had some help from the FlashForge reseller I bought the printer through and have now had some better success with ABS – the main thing there was he believed I had my bed too low (relative to the extruders). I raised it up a bit (he suggested a “half turn” of the leveling screws. That actually helped, at least, with ABS – I’ve had several good prints since that adjustment. I have not tried PLA again but will.
Question on leveling with paper (or, with anything I guess). I’ve noticed (especially with paper) that I often struggle to get the paper (I been using a half-sheet of 8 1/2 x 11 printer paper) under the extruder to check it, but then when I lower the bed to allow the paper to “fit” under the extruder, I find there is basically no friction at all. I raise the bed again until there is a decent amount of friction (enough that I can feel it, but the paper moves easily). Once I pull the paper completely free, I very often cannot get it back under the extruder without really fiddling. Is this normal? Or does this indicate I’m not doing the spacing correctly? I’ve found myself pre-positioning the paper to the leveling point and check friction after the extruder moves down to the bed – is that a bad practice?
Thanks for the quick response!
-M.
First is make sure the nozzle end is clean and clear.
Sounds like you are forcing it. Select level from the printer menu. Once it gets finished moving stuff move the extruder nozzle over one of the adjuster screws. Back the screw off so the paper slides under easily. Then turn the screw a bit and take your hand off of it. Always remove your hand from the screw then check. Sometimes it is hard to tell when the paper is starting to contact the nozzle.
Do this at each screw point. You may want to do each point in order more than once.
Now, the thing to realize is it is possible for the paper to still slide but you have direct contact of the nozzle and the bed. Sounds like that is happening. this takes a while to get the feel of it.
Search youtube for some videos on leveling with paper. There are plenty.
Perry_1
7
Leveling with paper is easy once you get the hang of it, it will become second nature.
Run the bed leveling from the buttons on the front.
Move the printer head to above the front screw. Loosen until the paper slides in easily. Tighten until the paper can be pulled out, but not easily. That is, if feels like it almost wont come out.
Move the print head to the back left. Do the same. Move the print head to the back right. Do the same.
Move the print head back to the front, and do it again.
Now you should be good.
Finally, get a glass build plate and some aquanet hairspray…
OK, so I have basically been doing it right from a procedural perspective, but I’m being too wimpy with the amount of friction I look for with the paper. I’ve read some posts that say to preheat the bed before leveling (to account for expansion of the bed, I suppose). Is that correct?
…and I have a glass build plate on the way – should be here this week!
Thank you!
-M.
I am up in the air on a preheat. Preheat the bed, preheat the nozzle … I get the arguments on it but I am not sure how much it matters. Maybe it depends on your process and machine?
I tend to start cold and get it leveled but I may go back and do it again once it is warmed up. Does help with cleaning the nozzle. I don’t go for as hard of a pull the paper as Perry. I find that if I am not careful I am actually raising the bed into the nozzle but the paper can still slip out. Do watch for movement of the bed to make sure it is not hitting the nozzle.
But maybe over time I have figured that a light resistance is good for some things and more resistance (smaller gap) on others.
I think the resistance feel can be affected greatly by a dirty nozzle.
I think over time you start to get a feel for it.
