Hey…new to 3d printing and this forum.
Just got a MB Z18. I’ve noticed that on my prints the first layer doesn’t seem quite solid. I have had to use rafts all the time because I can’t get good adhesion to the printbed (yet…still tinkering) but attached is an example.
You can see the spaces between the passes and the next layer up going the other direction. Not a problem for cute, hobby prints, but I have higher aspirations for this printer…Any suggestions appreciated.
MB PLA
Extruder Temp 215C
Chamber temp 30C
.2mm Layer height
15 infill Hexagonal
2 Shells
Rafts - Yes
THANKS
Rob
Hello,
I also use a Z-18 daily and have experienced this issue. I think the Makerbot software is trying to get the first layer to be barely attached to the bed so it is easier for removal. I have only had success with using rafts. Adhesion is a pain in the butt. The default bed is terrible and nothing sticks to it for me, not even a raft. We have had the best results with BUILDTAK. But it still warps.
I suggest leveling you print bed first. Then try printing only with rafts. It sucks and takes longer, but it is the only reliable option.
If anyone has suggestions on making the prints adhere I am all ears.
- J
Hey Rob,
I’ve owned a Z18 for years now, and my answer to your question is a simple ‘Yes’…
To elaborate, you will always use a raft when printing on a Z18. The machines original design and the printing profiles provided by MB are based the assumption that you will always use rafts.
If you want to not use them, you’ll need to look at hacking some kind of heated build plate into the machine, to maintain surface adhesion throughout the print, and make modifications to the printer’s auto leveling system.
-Michael
Hi Guys
I haven’t used this printer but it does sound like the starting distance from the build plate is too much. Also I have printed successfully on a few printers with the build plate at 45c for PLA. My suggestions would be to up the plate temp and after levelling the bed put a layer of blue painters tape on it. This will give a good surface adhesion plus slightly decreasing the first layer gap making the plastic squishing together more and pressing harder on the plate. Another one I have used very successfully is just cheapest boots home brand hairspray (harder to remove when cleaning bed but cheap)
Good luck!
KCT
5
Hey Rob. Welkome. I suspect yr gap between nozzle and bed is to big the lines printed should be flat on top
Rob,
Use blue painters tape on the bed if you are not already and get rid of the raft. PLA binds really well to the painters tape. If you are using the Makerbot slicer it is very complex to change some of the settings. I would recommend using Simplify3D. Simplify3d is far less buggy and is easier to use to adjust process settings. I would also consider running the extruder a little hotter (as high as 230 degrees). Looking at your picture the printer is definitely under extruding slightly. Simplify3d will let you adjust the extrusion factor to correct this and adjust the bead width based on the nozzle size. For right now using the Makerbot slicer increase the temperature to help the PLA flow better. If you are looking for a good PLA Makergeeks PLA is the best I have found (www.makergeeks.com). I hope this helps. I read some of the subsequent comments. I would definitely download the trial of Simplify3D. It gives you complete control over the process so you don’t have to live with MB programming limitations. When I started using it it was like having a new printer. I did not realize how limiting the MB software was. You should be able to print directly to the bed using PLA without using a raft. I do it all the time without any issues using blue painters tape. I print with a bed temperature of 50 - 70 degrees C. Make sure your bed is level. Simplify3D has default settings for PLA that should work with your printer.
The Z18 doesn’t have a heated build platform. It uses a polymer build platform and a heated build chamber. Although there are hacks available to install an unheated glass build plate.
Please don’t spray hairspray into the Z18’s build chamber. It will get sucked into the chamber heater and cause a fire.
-Michael
Aha!
Didn’t know that the plate was not heated. DON’T use hairspray LOL. BUT I would try blue painters tape (after levelling) or good old British masking tape at a push. I once used glue stick and my printer while doing retraction sucked it up into the nozzle (nightmare). I suppose if you had enough adjustment you could bulldog clip a cheap circuit board heat bed onto powered from a 12 volt power supply. 3D printing is all about having a go a experimenting. Even when it goes wrong you learn something new. I have modified every 3D printer I have used because none of them are perfect and we do sometimes have a flash of inspiration.
Good luck and Regards
Dave
Would glass work since PLA will stick without heat to it? I am not familiar with the printer but curious.
Skimbal
10
The glass plate provides a good flat surface, then you use blue tape as the adhesion surface. Its been working great on my machine for years.
So yes, blue painters tape does work - but not all kinds. In fact many kinds do not work. The best I have found is Ace Hardware brand blue tape. The PLA adheres so well it will not peel up at all. You need to level the build plate so that it is just one business card thickness above the blue tape. Looks to me like you are a little too high and that is part of the reason it is not printing well.
Always use Raft on Z18. Bottom surface is not so bad, especially using MB Print instead of MB Desktop.
Use Buildtac. I have very good results, much better then painters tape anyhow.
Go thru Level Build plate procedure. This will help you level build plate properly in order to make same adhesion at all sections of build plate.
Good luck.
IN Settings you can fix nozzle range from the printbed. Fix it to stay closer. First try with eg. “calibration box” in File -> Examples
Well that looks like the model to raft spacing value is more than the layer height (I assume your build plate is leveled). Use the default settings for .2mm in Makerbot Desktop and change the raft spacing to .18~.15mm and increase the temperature to 230c, no active cooling, no chamber heating, uncheck them all. I’m guessing you’re using your printer somewhere a bit cold, right?
Make sure the setting for filament diameter is 1.77mm and the filament is easily being pulled by the extruder.
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