1

Hi all, it’s been a while, but I just bought some Faberdashery filament again to play with. However I have trouble getting it to print well on my UM2. Does anybody have some general recommendation for settings? Nozzle = 0.4

2 Likes
2

Ultimaker Cura 2.3 is free software and they have put in the settings for many materials including the changes for colors. You may need to tweek the settings for your specific filament supplier regarding the bed and nozzle temps. Hope this helps!

3

What type of filament is it? PLA, ABS? It would also be good to know what sort of problem(s) you’re running into to properly troubleshoot the issue.

4

Hi @Filemon

I never had any problems with faberdashery filament. I printed all colors with the same (basic) settings on UMO and UM².

What problem do you have exactly?

Here is my profile for Cura 15.04.6: http://torhoff.com/3D/faberdashery.ini

File will be deleted within 3 days.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Joerg

2 Likes
5

Can you explane the problemen? I reccomended everybody to use only high quality filement. I use X2S filement, bever had any problems. After 10 prints I clean the nozzle for maximum preformence.

6

Hi Filemon,

If you increase the temp to 216C and flow to 106% you have better chances for a good print, in my experience.

2 Likes
7

Faberdashery only make PLA sadly. They do a vast array of colours which is why I like them

1 Like
8

Hi Filemon. I use a lot of Faberdashery material, but generally I tend to print slow. I also have found that I tend to print 5-10 °C hotter with faberdashery than say rigid.ink or RS Pro materials which seem almost runny if I use the same settings.

But as others have said; please provide more info about the specific issue. Sometimes changing the material needs a little bedding in and a few atomic pulls and possibly a new teflon isolator would be my first points of call when printing starts to go downhill on my UM2s.

2 Likes
9

Hi! I think you can find some settings on Faberdashery website. Nevertheless you should be able to make nice prints at a temperature of 210 for the nozzle and around 60 degrees for the bed. Use a general print speed of 50 mm/s. If the models are small you can decrease to 35-40 mm/s. Most important, use latest version of Cura 2.3.0 because it has very good profiles for your UM2. Wish you great 3D prints!

2 Likes
10

Hi, no problem at all with Faberdashery filament except the aurora pink for a detailed small print was a bit invisible but that is no filaments problem. I will try also nozzle 0.25 with Faberdashery filament and i will give a feedback.

11

Hi Filamon,

If your using a Olsson Block with 35W or 40W heater I use the following settings

Nozzle Temperature 210’C

Bed Temperature 50’C using hairspray as the bed adhesion.

print speed 45-50mm/s at 0.1mm or 0.2mm layers, with an initial 0.2mm layer.

depending you may need to increase the flow slightly to 104-110%

If you are running with a ruby nozzle then up the nozzle temperature by 5’C

If you have the origional Ultimaker2 head with no replaceable nozzles and a 25W heater the above would be a good starting point.

Izzy.

2 Likes
12

I changed my settings to this: Speed: 88% Nozzle temp: 200-208 Material Flow: 104% The only explanation I have is that I did a bunch of prints and continually played with settings and this has given me the best results.

2 Likes
13

sorry, I did not know there were already a lot of good replies.

–

Chris

14

Thx! This is what I needed to start off from, cheers!

15

Thanks!

16

thanks @gregh, Indeed I also noticed that my ‘standard PLA’ temperatures seemed to be too low and my speed to high. I will go with your recommendations, as well as the above, and check back in with more detail afterwards. Cheers!

17

Thanks @Joerg_4! From what I’ve read so far, print speed seems to be the main thing I need to lower. Will keep you posted.

Cheers!

1 Like
18

I really like Faberdashery filament for the colour range, and I use a lot of the Arctic White because of it’s optical brightness. I print at 202 degC with the standard UM2 PLA settings. I make sure the bed is well calibrated and the glass is very clean, no glue stick required.

19

Hi guys, got it all working. Stupidly enough the main issue seemed to be that I got old filament :s

Changing to another roll and applying your recommendation got it all up and running. Cheers and thanks again!

1 Like
20

@Filemon

photos or it didn’t happen :stuck_out_tongue: :slight_smile: