Hi everyone, I’ve been using a B9Creator 3D printer for more than 1 year and I’ll answer any question about resin based (and video projector) 3D printers here so you and I can link it in future messages.

Open the Source

Cheers!

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Nice, thanks! How similar are B9 resin related issues to the Form 1 that you know of? As the Form is the one I have

Yes, well they got this problem with deapth of cure with transparent resins, meaning that the laser/projector light will cure resin as far as it can penetrate it, so we need to use pigments and make the resins opaque to get good accuracy. But I have a plan fo that… I’ll “burn” the surface of the VAT coating with long overexposures, making a very thin milky surface wich will act like pigments and diffuse light so that it’s only strong enough within ~100um.

Next comes warping: gotta be careful how we orient and support the parts in the Layout, warping comes from shrinkage, it happens near the Build Table because polymerization creates tension between particles that pull on eachother from all around, the particles near the build table have nothing to hold on to and they are pulled away. We have to place support Base about 0.15mm to 0.5mm thick all around the model and avoid having thick and massive features near the Table. Try to use FunToDo resins on the Form1, they only shrink 0.5% cause they contain no solvant.

Next, holes from thermal expansion: polymerization gives up about 60℃ heat and inside closed cavities the expanding resin tries to find a way out so it pops a hole on a thin side and flows out pushing the resin that’s trying to cure there, so a breathing hole is formed and the rest of the print will be fine.

Next, you have limitations like you can’t print a solid object hollow inside like on FDM printers, you need to be able to empty the liquid resin inside and rince it with alcohol and water; print size, the B9 can be calibrated for more precision and with that we adjust some parameters but the max printable area is about the size of your palm… The B9 can shoot 30um pixels but that’s too thin to cure and stand so the smallest feature should be at least 2 rows of pixels, 60um. The new Form1 has a 70um beam diameter, non variable.

Then you have a gradient light, stronger in the middle and weaker around the corners of the printable area. In the Form1 you have the laser hitting straight up in the middle and in an icreasing angle around the edges and corners. This causes for distorsions and warping on the sides so the printable area is not 100% usable for precision parts, at least in the first 5mm of the Build.

The advantage of the B9 over all other SLA printers is its sliding VAT and the wiper. The VAT has a doubble bottom, higher on the printing (Open) side and lower on the Closed side so after each layer the Vat slides to the Closed side and the model slides off the High bottom and thowards the low bottom thus the Build Table goes up for the next layer without any succion. Each time the Vat slides, the wiper cleans the High bottom of any half-cured resin that might cause shadows on subsequent layers, it pushes the resin and exposes the PDMS coating to Oxygen wich prevents polymerization on the very surface and does not allow the model to stick down to the Vat, it mixes the solvants wich would otherwise accumulate in the same spots and polymerisation would suffer incresingly, it mixes pigments wich would otherwise settle down with time. So the B9 produces consistent precision throughout the Build. That’s all I can think of for now, bring up some more issues and we’ll compare.

Thanks!

Wow nice! I guess this is about as good as it gets in terms of explanation. Thx! Will def. use this (also to review in the future). Much appreciated :slight_smile:

Hi all,

I have been using Substance G+ UV Cure Resin made by ‘MakerJuice’. However the printer was out of action and recently fixed again, and since the 1.7 update I haven’t got the right settings for the Substance G+.

Could anyone help me determine the necessary settings? Rather than the time and cost consuming process of trial and error.

I have attached screen shots of the program and the model file used for your reference.

Thank you in advance!

TheBIGConsultant

Well, there is no magical way around trial and error, it really depends on many things… and there’s always a compromise.

I’ve been using SubG+ alot but I only ordered clear, non-pigmented, and added pigments and dies to get the desired colors and tranparency. Every time I changed the recipe, I had to tweak the settings…

Also, what is most critical for each print? Each particular model has different features so if you need to get thin features right, or thin supports, then you need to increase the exposure time, aybe give it some/more T-Over… If it’s more critical to get interior dimensions (like hole diameters, cavities, etc) right, then you slightly bring down exposure time and possibly set T-Over to 0… or are exterior dimensions more important in your model, you do the opposite…

What I suggest (what I do):

Download this Calibration Matrix http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:165389 and print it when you’re not sure what settings you need for your next print. It’s a 2-5 minute print, it’s dimensions are based on pixel matrix so the minimum feature will be one row of pixels, no matter what Pixel Size Setup you’re calibrated. You can easily tell, from how the features came out, If you need thin spaces between features you need to lower the exposure times, and if you need very thin features you gotta elongate them. With experience you’ll know the best settings just by looking at the model…

Or who knows, maybe you have a tall model that you need to place flat and there will be repeated exposures in the same spots and you want to spare the PDMS coating and some time on the print, you then make your supports thicker and lower exposure times.

So, as you can see, it’s an art. Every model is different and needs a little setting tweaking.

Anyways, SubG+ rule of thumb:

100µm pixel setup — ~10s attach layers and ~7s the rest

75µm pixel setup — ~7s attach layers and ~ 5s the rest

50µm pixel setup — ~5s attach layers and ~ 3s the rest

You decide for T-Over (perimeter pixels exposure)

But then again, each model is different and needs it’s own settings fine tuning.

Hi @BDan, are you interested in some free product? We are looking for a B9 power user to help dial in settings for the B9 with our resins in exchange for free product.

Hi @BDan, I hope this thread is not dead yet. I’ve been trying to get a DLP printer to work with the resin I got from an expired Stratasys Eden260V cartridge, but so far the resin won’t turn solid, not even with 5’ of light exposure. I believe it’s because of the power of the lamp within the DLP system or probably the wavelength of the light on both systems. Can you give me some advice about this? Do you know if it’s possible to use this Polyjet resin on DLP systems? Thanks in advance. Cheers!