Hello
I have recently upgraded my davinci 1.0a with repetier 0,92 with a e3d v6 clone. I printed a simple test cube and it looked very nice. A day later i got the message heater decoupled. After searching online i repaired it with changing the fuse on the mainboard. After that i found out that the wires of the thermistor where snapped off. After buying a new 100k NTC i was ready to go. But when i was heating it up to 200c it started to slow down around 150c. At 164c it was stuck and after maybe 10sec it showed heater decoupled. I turned it off and back on again and it showed the temperature again. I tried to heat it up again but it was the same story. I have changed the heater and still got the same problem. I also tried a different fuse. The resistance of the heater is 3,7 ohms like i should be. Also i have replaced the connector for the heater with a solid connection. The voltage to the heater is 11,2 Volt instead of 12 Volt. If this is the problem how do i fix it?
Greetings Sieuwe
I think you may need to change to a better power supply. Maybe slightly higher than the unit comes with. Your power supply is probably failing. It happens especially in other Chinese DIT kits. So there is no telling what we have in our XYZ’s.
Most Fry’s Electronics sell the same type of units they put into 3D printers. I was suprized when I went to my local store and found them among other 3D parts and electronics DIY stuff.
I was having a similar problem on my 1.0 with a real e3d hot end I found the problem to be the two pin connector between the hot end and the wire that goes to the motherboard I found mine to be slightly loose and not making a good connection and must have been worn out from hours of printing instead I just took the two wires twist tie them together and by electrical tape and found that to be a good temporary solution until I can get a new connector from Fry’s. After I replaced the connector I noticed faster heat up times and and I was no longer getting heater decoupled issues. I would try this and even if this didn’t fix your problem it’s probably better to replace a connector as it easily gets worn out and you wouldn’t want it to fail during a large print. Sorry if some things are hard to read I was using voice to text as I am in a bit of a rush sorry and hope your problem gets fixed.
EDIT: The Power Supply is not as powerful as it should be but it can handle the printers needs.
Hey David
Thanks for your reply. I have already changed the connector by the extruder. I will try tomorrow to remove the connector by the mainboard and solder the wires directly to the motherboard. I have measured the voltage at the extruder and it was 11.2V so i dont think that it will help but i will try.
Greetings Sieuwe
Hello Loopster
I dont think that it is the power supply. My printer is from mid 2015 so not that old. I want to try some smaller things first because installing a new power supply is a big step for me. I have also never heard of a davinci power supply failing. I am not saying it cant fail but i think it is something else.
Greetings Sieuwe
If that doesn’t work you may want to try replacing the wire itself entirely as the wires tend to break in the DaVinci. I hope you can fix it.
Hello David
So you think that 11,2V is not enough to heat the extruder?
Greetings Sieuwe
From what I have read from many sources is that the DaVinci is some what under powered and has voltage drops when using the hotend and heated bed at the same time and we can see this through voltage drops. This causes the DaVinci to heat up slower than normal but since all of them do this it does not seem like problem in this case. I haven’t measured mine voltage wise but I have experienced longer than normal heat uptimes and due to that I avoid using the heated bed. 11.2v is only slightly off from 12v and should make only a very minor difference in heat up times. I don’t think its a problem in your case but if you want to upgrade the psu try to get a 300+ watt with lots of amperage on the 12v rail. This sounds like a faulty wire/connection or a firmware problem or a motherboard problem.
What else have you modified on your 1.0A?
Have you tryed your old stock hotend to see if it works?
Believe me most power supplies from China and especially these brick looking units do fail and they may say they put out " X" amount of power are not doing it. It’s just like a HP server power may say 1000 watts. Then it will say on the label actual output 900 watts. So some boards are 12 volts and some 24 volts and the power supply is 300 watts. So good enough you say. What a lot of people do not realize is when your using your heat bed it is taking a lot of power and it needs a constant stream of power. And you hotend needs constant power. Your motors and all electronics. The end stops also. So that 300 watt is taking a beating. So I suggest to everybody to have a power supply 100 to 200 watts over what they got. That way if there is a deviation of power. It can more than handle it. I hope people know what I am talking about.
Think of it like a gaming computer. For performance not only do you need a powerful CPU, memory, hard drive, graphics card and etc. A gaming computer works well when you have a 1,200 plus watt power supply. Graphics cards are power hungry. Bare minimum 1,000 watts.
Hello
Okey i believe you. I will try to heat the hotend without heating the bed and i will disconnect the stepper motors. If it reaches 200c it is the power supply if not it is something else i think.
Greetings Sieuwe
I have made a second 12v connection for the fan. But before i did the e3d v6 upgrade i had a layer cooling fan that used 12v that i also tapped of the board so that isn’t the problem. I have also put a fuse of 4Amp between the heater and mainboard. I have removed it to check if that was the problem but it wasent. I have not tried the original hot end. I have tried the heater from the original an i had still the same problem.
Hello
i have tried to heat it without the bed. And it was interesting. Just take a look at the picture the temperatures are jumping all over the place. I have connected the NTC without any connectors to the small extruder board. The resistance on the pin of the mainboard that goes to the NTC is 94K. That is around 30c on the display so that is ok. The NTC is also correct in the hole of the heat block of the extruder. I almost know 100% that the NTC is the problem but i dont know why.
Greetings Sieuwe
Hi Sieuwe,
Can you explain more detailed how to disassemble the bed thermistor?
Thank you!
