Hi there! I’d like to replace my CTC board with one that will allow me to add a Auto Bed leveler. I’d also like to replace the allow extruder heads with Brass and the Nozzle throat too. What are my options for these things? I’m fairly new to all this, so any help getting in the right direction is greatly appreciated!
I have the CTC Bizer model Dual Extruder.
Thank you!
1 Like
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?\_from=R40&\_sacat=0&\_sop=15&\_nkw=mk%208%20extruder&rt=nc&LH\_PrefLoc=2&\_trksid=p2045573.m1684
auto bed levelling is a whole other battle .
I would say just get a glass bed and print some more ergonomic adjustment screws . The stock build plate is terrible on CTC’s but with a 3mm glasss bed once its dialled in right , Epic prints .
For my prints i use pritt stick and cool the bed right down on the last 5 layers . if i get anything too stuck down i just take the glass bed off and run the underside under a cold tap, print comes popping straight off without even touching it ! .
on a side not i would strongly advise getting an e3d hotend , the ones my CTC shipped with were garbage and forever clogging / throat PTFE getting warped and causing clicking and under extrusion .
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-3D-Printer-E3D-V6-J-head-Hotend-1-75mm-Filament-Bowden-Extruder-Nozzle-0-4mm-/252528373805?hash=item3acbdd302d:g:j0EAAOSwFe5XzvY4
What did you have to do to retrofit E3D’s onto your printer? I’ve looked at that operation in the past, but converting my printer to a Bowden style seemed like a lot of surgery.
Your nozzles should already be brass. The heater block is alloy. There’s nothing really wrong with the stock setup bar the bottom of the PTFE tube can distort if you use temperatures over about 245-250*c, you should be below that with PLA and ABS anyway.
If you’re buying nozzles from Tiny get one of those anti-backlash Z-nuts too, I made my own but was discussing it a while ago and he mentioned he had a source to bring some in - probably one of the most simple quality upgrades you can give the machine.
