Ctc 3d printer wont push filament through extruder

[jeanpoint]

So i just got my printer in the mail today and it looks great and I’m excited to start my first print. after hooking every thing up I tired to do the first sample print that comes with the SD card. every thing looked like it was working fine so i left it alone for about 45 minutes, when i came back i notice the print was about 45 percent done but the was no physical object. I noticed that extruders wont feed the filament through at all. So then i realized i could load the filament using the key pad to navigate through the options, I did that and pushed it through till i noticed the filament coming out the extruder and felt the extruder grab hold of the filament. I then tired to reprint but same result. What am i doing wrong? I haven’t hooked it up to my laptop yet could that be the reason?

[Adagio]

Hey! I had the same problem. The thing is, the tubes feeding the plastic into the printer have too much friction. I solved it by making a wall bracket and feeding the plastic,straight from the spool, into the extruders… I could attach a picture if you’d like?

[Eduardo_Garcia]

Crappy feed tube, don’t use them. Also, initially don’t leave it alone until you know it prints good. Without a few mods it will most likely not print a long print on its own. Also, make sure your temperature is appropriate, too cold and it will start skipping when extruding.

[Adagio]

I leave mine alone for 4 hour print’s… After my mod, no issues…

[jeanpoint]

Yes i would love to see a picture to see how you have your set up. Also this morning I ran into a problem loading my filament in correctly. I went to load filament, waited till the printer told me it was ready and I started feed the filament through. I can feel it tugging at the filament but it doesn’t stop tugging and the filament doesn’t come out the other end like it was doing last night. Im assuming its because the extruder isnt hot enough to melt the filament through, but Im not sure why I haven’t changed anything from last night. any ideas?

[Adagio]

Did you remember to let it cool down (50*C) when you turned it off last time?

Might need to clean it out?

I’ll get you the pictures…

[jeanpoint]

nope i defiantly did not let it cool off at all before shutting it off last night. also here is a picture of the extruders i got, the left one looks new but if you look closely at the right its really danged up and scratched up, do you recommend trying to exchange as it might be a part of the problem?

[Adagio]

[Adagio]

Hahaha! No… That Extruder looks fine to me… AS long as the nozzle is clear…

You could switch the two…? Just the nozzle’s they screw out easily.

Ummm… I did the same with mine earlier, and got a feeding problem… Does it make this awful clicking sound when printing?

[Eduardo_Garcia]

Yeah after mods it works great.

[adamcooks]

Remember these are wooden machines, running on questionable electronics( low side switching with the ability for a MOSFET to fault on ) , with little to no safety interlocks, capable of burning down a house. 1KG of ABS plastic contains more stored energy then 1 KG of gasoline.

I agree on the less then optimal feed tubes. I personally had issue with the spool holders on the back and use Thingiverse - Digital Designs for Physical Objects sitting on the table behind my printer. CTC also still uses the delrin plunger and no spring lever in the extruder? Thas is a recipe for disaster as well. As far as replacing, there are a number of replcator 1 extruder moduels on thingiverse. You could call http://www.unclechucks3dprinterstuff.com/ and get the wanhao/flashforge/avatar injection molded set, I dont know how much for the hardware and plastic but chucks prices are very fair. http://devilsinthedetails.ca/ is what I use on mine, but there are not cheap.

suggestions on printed extruder modules

Thingiverse - Digital Designs for Physical Objects

FlashForge Creator/Pro/X/Dreamer Extruder plastic. Works with Flex Filament....

[adamcooks]

I bet you did not straighten the filament before you put it in. Also , there may be old filament still in the thermal barrier. Basicly you couldn’t find the hole. At this point you will learn how to disassemble your extruder. You will need to remove the fan and heatsink from the front allowing access to the thermal barrier ( the part that gets hot ). Once you remove the fan and heatsink you will see a small piece of filament sticking up out of the hot part, under the drive gear. You will preheat the bot, with it disassembled, be sure to no break the fan blades at 50C it will turn on, and pull that stuck filament out. if you cant pull it out, you can push it down the tube with a 1.5mm allen key.

removing of the fan and heatsink will become normal operation for you.

We have a decently active google group here , Redirecting to Google Groups , You may find it a better format for sharing and receiving help.

[adamcooks]

You may also want to invest some time into reading “The Manual” http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/sailfish.html . Pay close attention to section 5 the slicer calibration chapter.

[Adagio]

Didn’t cool mine down last time, and had to clean out the extruder this morning… It cleans easily though… Just screw out the tip, you could switch the two if you want…

Hahaha! That extruder doesn’t look bad at all!

Sorry… Having internet troubles…

[jeanpoint]

Thanks for the pictures I had a completely different image from what you explained to me from the earlier post but it makes since now haha. And yeah actually it does make that clicking sound you’re talking about but it does it when im trying to feed the filament through i havent successful got it to print anything yet. the left xtruder doesn’t give me that clicking sound so and its probably because its a lot newer then the right extruder. Im going to working on it when I get done with classes for today and update you with some pictures. I really appreciate you taking the time to respond to me btw, you’ve been extremely helpful.

[jeanpoint]

thank you for sharing these links with me, Ill be sure to check them out. I want to make the upgrades but I figure why not learn with the not so good ones first that why im an expert when investing in the newer models

[jeanpoint]

thank you for the link I’ll be sure to check it… I was just so excited to get my printer last night that i just dived right in haha!

[Jeff_Wilson]

Sounds to me like your extruder drive blocks are out of wack! The stock CTC extruder drive block set up is no good out of the box you really need to upgrade to a spring loaded set up like others have suggested, they are common mod found on thingiverse and used as upgrades on CTC, Flashforge and Makerbot. You might need some hardware to build them there are several around like this one Replicator 2, CTC, extruder upgrade compatiable with 12mm V-groove Filament Bearing (VERSION_2) by BuilderOfThings - Thingiverse or you can buy them seeings how it could be tough to print one with the original blocks giving your trouble.

But! I can suggest one trick that could/might help you get printing with the drive system that was included with the CTC.

First remove the extruder fans, unplug the stepper motors and pull them with the black plastic drive block attached.

Take about 10in of filament off a roll and shove it through the hole in the drive block (there are 2 holes on each block the inner is hole is the one used). You will feel the filament hit the v-groove pulley and the drive gear it shouldn’t be super tight, but also not super loose.

With the filament threaded through your drive block loosen the screws attaching the drive block to the stepper and there is just a little play, you can then adjust the block some left to right (moving the v-groove pulley closer or further away from the drive gear) to fit the filament better. (again to much tension on the filament and it will skip, too loose and it will skip) then tighten the screws back down.

Reinstall steppers and load some filament and give it a try. This should improve the feed some, and with any luck make it so you can print some drive blocks or at least have some fun printing a Marvin or two while you wait for parts to arrive.

When i got my ctc i had the same problem, but i already had my other printer making upgraded drive blocks for it when took the CTC out of the box.

Sorry no pictures at work this afternoon, but let me know if you need pictures.

-Extra tips:

Check the little belt on the back right of the machine (Y-Axis) they are normally loose out of the box ( you can see it when it runs, it causes sloppy prints) loosen the 4 bolts that hold the stepper to the housing and push down tell belt has good tension and re-tighten, then print one of these to help sturdy it up: CTC, Flashforge Y-Achsen Stepper Befestigung / Y-Axis Stepper Mount by CBiker - Thingiverse

Don’t use the feed tubes (they cause jams and feed problems) use an over printer filament system some of these on thingiverse.

Consider doing the sailfish firmware update (follow instructions EXACTLY for FF creator dual) also on thingiverse.

Do the active cooling fan upgrades (for PLA) also on thingiverse. I would consider adding the mosfet to the mightyboard for the active cooling fan and reading up on how to drive it with your slicer software (Sort of complicated).

Use a glass build plate and some blue or kapton tape (Borosilicate or Tempered glass from hardware store is fine) or GeckoTec ($$) set up to go on top of your heated bed.

Try using Simplify3d ($$), Cura, or Slic3r

PRINT FROM SD CARD!!

All of this will greatly improve your CTC printer experience.

[jeanpoint]

im having a tough time unscrewing the nozzles they do not come off so easily on my