Interestingly enough, $2000 is kind of an odd price point for these machines. One thing to keep in mind about build volume, especially when your new to 3D printing, the printing height, is not nearly as important as the printers x and y size capabilities. Another thing. You sholud always look for a printer that you can buy parts for HOWEVER, don’t get too caught up about it. Once you explore the machine you will find that many of the parts are interchangabel with either aftermarket parts, or interchangeable parts that can be found online (without an affiliation with the printer). Ill suggest 3 printers.
1. Luzbot Taz 5. ($2500) This printer not only gets raving reviews, but is also has one of the largest build volumes at its price, with a full heated bed. I can personally attest that they have good support. Not only that, but their site is full of upgrades that can be purchased, and the extruder assembly is ready for an aftermarket extruder, if you choose to get one at a later date. However, its not a fast printer, but no FFF’s are very fast. I wouldn’t even be concerned about speed. Prints take 3-20 hours, thats just how it is with FFF’s.
2. FlashForge Creator pro ($1100) This printer is not only reliable, but a great printer to learn, because it is dual extrusion. There are literally dozens of applications for dual extrusion, you can do some research on that if you would like, just note, it’s capable of much more than just printing with 2 different colors. The creator pro’s build volume is a standard 6" x 9", which, again, once you start using it, its bigger than you think. It also has a heated bed. Just like any big 3D printing company. FlashForge offers quick and easy email support, and a nice warrantee on the printer. The biggest con to the FFCP is that the extruder’s hot ends employ the use of PTFE tubes. Its not a huge deal, but once in a while you will inevitably be dealing with jams. It’s a 5 minuet fix once you know what you are doing. Just pull the nozzle, clear the tube, heat the nozzle with a torch to clear it, then put it back into the machine.
3. Noble 1.0. ($1500) This is an SLA printer. Meaning it uses resin as apposed to plastic spools, and cures the resin with a laser. I have never used this machine before, but I have heard good reviews. The biggest con behind this printer in your situation, is that lots of people are going to be using it, so its going to collect dirt and finger prints, and ANYTHING the laser has to shine through in order to cure the resin (like the glass plate, or the resin tank) has to be immaculately clean every time you print. Also no current SLA/DLP printers that are affordable, have very large build volumes. This one does about 13x13x20cm. The reason I suggest it, and why it may be a good choice as apposed to an FFF, is because without doubt, SLA and DLP, is the future of consumer grade 3D printing. SLA and DLP printing massively bump the amount of detail you can get out of a 3D printer. Although on paper, they can hardly out preform some of todays top selling FFF’s, in practice, SLA is miles ahead.
