1

I have had the mono price maker select pro ultimate 3D printer for a few weeks now. I have been trying to get it to print reliably and in high quality. I use CURA( the version that came with the printer) and solid works to print things, but i have tried to print some of the test items too, and well… look what it did to this poor swan.

image_185.jpg
image_185.jpg3264×2448 2.26 MB

2

It looks like there is not enough time for each layer to cool properly when printing the neck of the swan.

The rest of the swan looks pretty much ok.

I see this when printing very small detail.

It would help you much, if you printed a second object along side of your swan.

In CURA, you can increase the time for each layer, but with a small detail like the neck, I’m not sure if it will help

or not.

Maybe blowing a fan on the neck piece while it’s printing would cool down the filament enough.

3

I had the same issue with my new Monoprice Maker Ultimate 3D printer. I am new to 3D printing so I’m not sure what caused it yet. Mine looks exactly the same as yours.

4

I hope you’re gotten past the issue by now, but if not…

What kind of material are you printing? Is the the filament that came in with the printer? I recommend buying some good PLA (Hatchbox is my pref). My samples worked well out of the box (until I broke a bearing block… another story).

As Garyg pointed out, cooling is likely playing a part in what you saw at the top, but if the print came loose from the bed, that might also cause it. You can upgrade cooling, but set your fan to 100% for now to test.

To learn more, this site is a great resource: (tips, tweaks, upgrades, troubleshooting, etc.)

Duplicator i3 Factory Documentation & Files « 3d Printer Tips and Mods Wiki (Including 2 of my favorite alternative samples: OK(2015) and Cat)

Additionally, you can find some great troubleshooting guides on failed prints if you google around. Find some calibration prints on Thingiverse (calibration cube, bridge test, etc.) and tinker with those on HQ settings and work your way to Normal Q and Fast Q from there.

General tips on the Maker Select/Wanhao:

* Get the original samples working, then move on to downloading models from Thingiverse Print and install one of a set of spring caps (multiple options on Thingiverse) and install them (or you’ll be leveling the bed way more often than you want to) Keep what you print for a baseline.

* Get good at leveling and then look at the tips for improving leveling reliability (spring caps, for example).

* Eventually, you’ll likely face problems with bed adhesion after a few weeks. Buy a piece of 200mm x 200mm borosilicate glass (or test with picture frame glass if you keep it under 80C) and clip/adhere it to your bed but be care of the clip placement so your head doesn’t hit them. (PLA love a 70C glass bed. It’s a match made in heaven.)

* Work through some of the simple tweaks (“jerk” settings, etc)

* Test different calibration prints to start learning how to fine-tune your settings. The calibration tower is slick, just keep in mind that you’ll have to edit the temperatures in the GCode (through a script or searching for Z10, Z20, Z30, etc. and adding a line to change the temp)

* Try printing some common samples again to compare to before. If you did it right, you’ll see it in the results

Get used to IIIP and then start branching into other slicers if you want to. IIIP comes nicely calibrated out of the box.

* Print an alternate cooling solution. Search Thingiverse for Wanhao cooling. I went with the Cobra fan because it’s rear mount, but I’d probably go another direction if I had it to do over)

* Look at other mods (Z stabilizers, etc.)

Happy printing!