Bassna
1
My bed plate quit heating up. I also noticed it no longer is flashing the yellow light when pre-heating. It has no error though, just keeps drifting from 15, 16, back to 14 degree’s. Not really sure what to do, I e-mailed their support but not sure how long that will take for a response, plus I am no longer in warranty. I was trying to pull the plugs that are attached to the bed plate to inspect them, but they are pretty stuck on there and I don’t want to break more than it already is.
The plug on the left of the plate does appear to have a small brown mark, but I can’t tell much else without pulling it off I don’t think. Any information would be appreciated.
1 Like
Have you mad sure all the connectors are in correctly on the rear of the heated bed. I had this issues.
I had a similar problem. I shorted the connection between the ribbon cable and the heat bed. Replacing the ribbon cable worked for me. Make sure no liquid is getting in contact where the ribbon cable and the heat bed connect.
Bassna
4
Thanks for the quick reply’s guys. I pulled out this plug and it does appear to be kind of burnt right? (Hopefully I can get it back in, I couldn’t pull the plug part out from the case.) I see a replacement cord for the Flashforge creator pro heat bed cord on their store, for $8. Should I order this? Here is a picture.
Yeah, that looks a little burnt. When this happened to me I was able to clean it up and wiggle it around until it to make contact again, but I did order a new cable.
Bassna
6
I received an e-mail back from Tang at Flashforge today. He said “I am afraid you need a new heating board, as the socket should be soldered together with the board” which is what popped off when I tried to unplug it, and offered to mail me one out for $60. Which seems fair because it’s about double that with the shipping from the website. I just wanted to check if this is the option I should go with?
I know this is rather old, but if you have a soldering iron and you are fairly good with it, you can do it even for a noob. I was a noob when I started out and now I hand solder 1206 SMD resistors and smaller, along with SMD PWM chips and FETS. I would suggest going to ebay and buy cheap soldering kit to practice on SMD stuff. You can easily re attach the solder joints of the connector on the heated bed IF and I must emphasize IF you didn’t peel the traces off the board. This can save you money. If you still have the bed I would be interested in possibly buying it from you. I need a spare and if I can get it fixed that’s great. if not I can still use it to do a schematic of the wire traces. I see there are 2 heavy wires for the 24v side + and -, but then I see there are another connector with 4 wires. I see 2 on the back of the bed are negatives and 2 pins tie to ground. so that leaves a 5V reference voltage and a signal wire for the thermistor. but would love to verify. I want to make my own bed, larger, and with heavier traces. I have had my FFCP about 1 year and have rarely printed in ABS due to the fact it warps (yes I have closed build chambers and fans to keep the air inside hot), and problems adhering to buildtak, but the bed now takes a while to heat up. I have a new FFCP that I just got as a second to speed up production and it heats up to 65c in 5 mins or less. the other one takes 20. If I print ABS forget it. I have to preheat for 30 minutes I think or longer.
Anyhow I could also see about repairing your bed for you. If you could send me pics of the bottom of the PCB. Let me know I hope you still have this and check your messages.
II have many years soldering experience btw, but with the new SMD stuff not so much. I had a mightyboard that took a crap on me and ended up being a hexfet and a transistor. VERY tiny. I use a SMD rework station I got from amazon that has a heat gun. A heat gun is your best friend for SMD stuff as long as you don’t heat the chip up too much or surrounding components. What I do is since I don’t care about the old chip I heat it up and pull it off. Then take the soldering iron and some solder wick and wick up the remaining solder up. Add some paste flux, add some small amounts of paste solder. Then sit the chip on the contacts into the paste (paste helps hold the chip in place) then hit the contacts with the soldering iron for a few seconds each while pressing down with a pair of tweezers. Has never failed me yet. Just keep an eye on your chip as your soldering it to make sure its lined up and no whiskers or bridges. I have a harborfreight lighted magnifying lap and it has a nice super magnifying lens inside of the bigger one and that works great. I think it was like 18 bucks or so. If I can be of any assistance, please let me know.
Also just FYI and my 2 cents worth. FlashForge printers are GREAT, but they are no makerbot printer. In that I mean the quality is decent but the parts used are JUNK. I’m sure you have heard or have experienced the X motor shake or even extruder not working or shaking or heaters not heating etc. The printers use a very small guage wire, which is adequate for the current used, however the insulation isn’t present. If you compare the same gauge wire from the US to their gauge wire, the insulation is much thicker. Same goes for the bed, thin insulation == stress on wires === damage to wires and components. I’m in the process of making replacement wireset for the extruders that I may start selling that are of better quality wire, better insulation to help prevent this. I haven’t had the issue YET but heart of it often.
