UH?

It’s a big octagon sticker (about 6-8") with “WARNING” at the top and a little capsule in the middle. It looks something like the one attached. (I don’t don’t have a Raise3D box handy to photograph.) They are usually on anything with electronics or glass that is shipped via freight these days. I’ve also seen these on boxes that weigh over 30lbs through FedEx and UPS. (The manufacturer adds these, not the shipper).

It’s been on the box of all three Raise3D printers I’ve received over the past year. If the capsule center is red, it means that the box experienced an impact during shipment that was above the “normal” levels during shipment (different color tags are for different levels of gforces). You are supposed to note on the shipping doc you sign if the center is red or partially red.

If you ever watched the show Mythbusters, they would stick these stickers on Buster, their crash test dummy to determine if a human would have survived whatever myth they were testing.

You are supposed to note on the waybill when you sign if the shock tag has been triggered.
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sorry not in europe

Sorry, I’m in the US, so I can not speak to what is done for shipment in any other country.

Why do you say Simplify 3D is a must? Is ideamaker not good?

Ideamaker is actually quite good. These folks probably used a beta version or something early during the Kickstarter because I have no issues and use nearly every function. They also update quite regularly.

I have one and I like it… it works pretty good out of the box with PLA. The only issues are with large prints with ABS and these are typical issues you’d have with warping and bed adhesion. The factors involved are the quality of the ABS filament and the type of surface you are printing to. I have found that using glass with either capton or some other surface stuck to the glass and Elmers purple gluestick works the best. Also securing the glass to the heated bed with silicon pads on the corners is better than the clips they provide.

It’s not the fastest printer but I like the large volume and felt the cost justified not having to deal with building a system with an equivalent volume.

I’m sorry whats BuildTak? I’m new to all this I’m sorry if its a silly question

Good afternoon, I have had the n2 + for a couple of months now. It has been my first 3D printer so I have nothing to compare it to. I like it, however it has issues and I would never buy another one. The bed did not come level and we are having a hard time making it level. There are lots of brass parts including the nozzle, which causes the need to upgrade almost immediately. We feel like we’ve had to do more repairs on it than what we should based on the number of hours. It has the ability to print a large number of different materials and obviously the print volume are both pluses. I have not used the full print volume yet as I’m having commitment issues to an 8 day print

Buildtak is a texture surface with a self adhesive backing that you apply to the glass printing bed. The textured surface helps the first layer stick to the plate. Buildtak works best with PLA. Problems with build tak is that it’s kinda expensive, wears out and can be easily damaged when you sue a scraper to remove prints.

No problem, it’s a build surface you put on the top of the glass sheet. It keeps your object adhered to the base as it prints.

I have used both… I don’t have any issues with ideaMaker and it’s free

does it work good with nylon and ninjaflex/polyflex too?

where do you buy it? can you get it thru Raise?

I’ve heard good things, I’m going to try it anyway

Yes but it’s generally cheaper to get on Amazon.

why the bondtech? is the extruder not good on the raise?

It’s a great extruder but the bondtech is unique in how it handles flexible filament. General printing performance is great without the upgrade.

The bondtech upgrade isn’t necessary unless you really need it or just want to. The V2 extruder are actually very good. The biggest issue I have is with heat buildup in the metal block that it’s made of when using abs and other high temp filaments. Just make sure any parts you print to put on the block like a filament guide are not pla.

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DANGERSUICIDE - 3D - PRINTER

Endschalter Endstop Endswitch killer

Pleace return all printers worldwide !!!

Shows the company that you want your money again.Where is my limit switch

That’s funny. I busted the same ends top because I was manually pulling it back too hard. Just email the customer service and they will create a listing for you to buy a couple if they aren’t available on the parts page.