1

Hello

I have decided to join this community because I have experienced problems I cannot deal with on my own and I hope someone could help me. Thank you in advance.

First of all do not pay attention to stringing because I have intentionally disabled retraction to check if those problem might be because of retraction and priming settings.

The most annoying are those holes on top layer. I have set top and bottom to 8 layers (1.4mm)

I personally do not think its because of underextrusion cause walls looks just fine.

Another issue is warping on the raft. My heated bed is currently out of order but I print with PLA and raft sticks to bed really well yet raft to print is another story. I have set air gap to 0.2mm, initial layer overlap to 0.1mm and first layer speed to 25mm/s.

Some more probably less important settings:

printer- Wanhao i3 duplicator

temp 215C (true temp would be around 200-205 cause i have insulated it)

print speed 50mm/s

infill 25%

layer height 0.2mm

Did someone experience similar problems?

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2

What slicer?

Try another slicer … see if you get same issues.

Garth

3

Hi, I don’t print PLA much… but I think you may try to lower the nozzle temp to 190. I don’t know what is that you use for stick the 1st later to the bed… but it looks really messy… so that material may obstruct the nozzle if sticks to it.

I never use raft… I guess you are because you have some sticking problems. The warping tells me that.

And one more thing… I don’t know why you use those big walls, you only need 3 ( 1.5 mm if you have a .5mm nozzle… or 1.2 if you have .4mm ).

Can you upload a screenshot of your advanced cura settings?

If I was you… 1st of all try to make your bed to work again… I guess you burned the connectors? there is a lot of information to fix that. I have mine solded to the board now.

If you cant fix the bed… then find a better way to make the 1st layer stick to bed, you need to find a way to get rid of the RAFT, and still have good adhesion… did you try 3M blue painters tape? Also for this you need a perfect level bed… so you will have to deal with that too.

And… you may have some problems with the axis movement… check if the axis has proper lubrication. Don’t use liquid lubricant, try superlube.

Hope that helps, sorry for my english. :slight_smile:

Gerardo

4

For the holes- Circles are usually the hardest things to print (surprisingly), it looks like either the filament has no surface to grab hold to while printing, try decreasing the acceleration and jerk settings of your printer/ decrease outline speed/ try changing the print temp.

Also dies this happen to other filaments or is it just only this one?

For the raft lifting- clean the print surface fully with rubbing alcohol and then use a thin layer of PVA/wood glue with water. If this doesn’t work move the nozzle closer to the bed and decrease first layer print speed.

Good luck :slight_smile:

5

You should make sure your top/bottom layer thickness is a multiple of your nozzle width, so for a .4mm (default) nozzle, you’d want to go with .8, 1.2, 1.6, etc top/bottom layer thickness to ensure no missed steps and better results.

It looks like you’ve got some under-extrusion going on around the circles, that could be due to too much retraction, have you fine tuned yours?

The pillowing/tears on the large flat area could be a symptom of the 1.4mm layer thickness, failing that I’d be looking at low infill, which could be the result of more under-extrusion that I can see from the pics.
I understand you don’t personally think it’s an under-extrusion issue but these points may be worth taking into consideration.

As for the warping, really the best way to fix that is to fix your heated bed. If that’s not an option, remove the raft and swap to using a brim. If the base layer sticks well to the print bed then you don’t need the raft, I’ve never liked it as an option for a flat base as there’s literally nothing stopping the plastic from warping.

If all else fails I recommend you try printing a Benchy (#3DBenchy - The jolly 3D printing torture-test by CreativeTools.se by CreativeTools - Thingiverse) and post the results, it’s a lot easier to see and diagnose print issues when looking at a calibration print and knowing how it should look vs looking at a random object people aren’t familiar with.