DrPete
21
Take a look at the Sailfish firmware for the Replicator (http://jettyfirmware.yolasite.com/v77-v47.php) or search in Thingiverse. You might benefit from expertmenting with hot end temperature during a build.
DrPete
22
Take a look at the Sailfish firmware for the Replicator (http://jettyfirmware.yolasite.com/v77-v47.php) or search in Thingiverse. It maybe beneficial to experiment with different hot end temperatures during a build.
Sailfish’s filament odometer is also a helpful tool for gauging whether the last several meters on a spool will complete a build.
My prints are really marvelous using PHA-PLA from colorFabb and when I have to print parts that need to be tougher, I consider XT and XT-CF20.
PHA-PLA is biodegradable and XT is foodsafe which is not the case of ABS. Moreover, with ABS, you will have to deal with warping, which can be very hard to handle for large prints without a heated bed. PHA-PLA warping effect is almost null and is very easy to override.
ABS is made of petroleum… not very good for the planet…
PHA-PLA is made of corn (or other vegetables).
I am not telling ABS is not a way to have good prints. I just think that there is another way.
Hi everyone. Interesting to read this, I have to say. I am a beginner in printing.
Nevertheless i learned that the retraction length can be a little low as deafult.
I have increased the value to 1,2 mm printing 3DBenchy with better resoult.
/Svante
Something i did not read here, is the fact that small parts need the setting “minimum layer time”. So in makerware you could make a custom profile where you set min layertime to 10 sec. Now your layer can cool down a bit, so it has the needfull strenght for receiving an other layer.
