I have been printing with this Flashforge Creator Pro for a few months now. And I had filament jamming before, I fixed it by cut off the stucked filament in the motor then take out the motor to try flush down the jammed filament by pushing it down sometimes with the help of a small heat gun. Then everything went fine, new filament coming out healthy then I can keep on printing.
But lately It keeps happening more and more, sometimes a few times a day when printing large object. And it really bother me having to keep doing the process over and over.
The thing is after doing the same thing like I said, new filament coming out looking great then it gets jammed again.
I would appreciate it a lot if someone here can give me some explanation and advices to stop my printer from jamming too much.
I heard that changing the little tube inside would help it but then again new filament coming out looking great so it can not be the little tube, cant it?
I use mostly Hatchbox PLA but i have tried lower quality filament. Does it matter?
Please help, I want my baby healthy again.
And thank you for reading this.

Definitely change the Teflon tube if you haven’t yet, also check the filament drive gear and make sure it isn’t gunked up from grinding filament when it jams. If you’ve jammed and cleared the same nozzle over and over you may have damaged the inside of the nozzle so check for scratches inside and if you see a good amount it’s time for a new nozzle. You could have also striped your heat block from removing and replacing the nozzle a bunch so check that, and It could also be w bad roll of filament, have you tried different rolls?

Check ptfe / teflon tube, might need replacement. Check nozzle, acetone bath or blow torch it.

check extruder gear might need cleaning if lots of clicking.

in your setting, check retraction, it might be too high.


Before you disassemble anything, I know it could be daunting task sometimes, PLA has a tendency to jam up nozzles after a while of usage, specially if you are setting extruder temps below 230C. If you have a guitar string, 3.5mm in diameter, try sticking it through the hole of the nozzle while it is heated up to 230C. It’s can be hard to get it through the hole, but keep trying, it is possible, coz I do it all the time. When you get it through the hole, stroke it in and out of the nozzle as far as you can get it, and before you say anything, I know what it sounds like. Make sure to remove filament first before doing this. After that, leave the extruder heated up at 230C for about 10 minutes, then initiate filament loading. Hopefully this will clear your nozzle and you would not need to remove it. It works for me all the time and I use my FFCP for business.


change your ptfe tube inside your nozzle probably where the issue is, we use wanhao filament from technologyoutlet.co.uk works great on a creator pro

Hi, clean the filament drive gear with a wooden toothpick. Replace the nozzle. Replace the ptfe (teflon) tube with a new one. Avoid going higher than maybe 230 degrees celcius on a hotend with a ptfe lining. The ptfe tube is a consumable. Good luck!

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To easy options:

1) A lot of PLA jamming issues have been fixed by people “seasoning” the nozzle. This involves oil, often canola, being applied to a clean nozzle, to lubricate the filament as it passed into the nozzle. You can 3DPrint a filter to add to your filament, with a little sponge inside, and apply the oil regularly to the sponge. Search thingiverse for "filament

oil filter".

2) how old is your filament / how long has it been exposed to air? Filament, especially PLA, absorbs moisture which can cause swelling which can cause jamming. Try drying your filament. To do so, you can put it in the oven, or in an airtight box for a few days with some dessicant, like a bag of rice, or the more expensive silicon dessicant - same stuff they probably gave you with the filament in a little sachet.

3) check your extruder tension - remove the filament from the hot end, and try moving the extruder - use your software and also try bu hand. Do you get the exact extrusion amount you expected? Is the filament difficult to feed in by hand? Loosen or even increase the tension until it improves. I like a tight tension, as my springs are relatively week. A strong spring might need loosened. This is especially useful - every filament is different, they all say 1.75mm or 3mm, but thats more of a stated aim for the size - the most important size is the tolerance - some filaments will vary greatly between manufacturers, and even the same manufacturer will vary by colour. Even then the tolerances are published as averages over a certain distance, and are not guatantees of the whole roll. Basically if you’re experimenting, witj different filaments, colours etc, its not uncommon to change the extruder tension with each roll. I have black and white 1.75mm filament from eSun. The white is thicker than the black, I dont know why. I change the tension every time I change colour.

4) try increasing your temperature, forget what youve read about ideal printing temp, or what it says on the filament sticker. Use as a guideline at best. Increase in small 5 degree changes until you hit consistent extrusion. That white PLA i mentioned likes 205 degrees at 0.3 nozzle and ~50 mm/s. The black needs more, like 215 degrees.

5) print faster. If you’re too slow, the plastic has nowhere to go, so will jam up.

6) increase the layer height - do you only have this problem at low layer heights, or all layer heights? Do you have active cooling on the parts, a layer fan? This will help the plastic solidify quicker rather than melting back up into the nozzle. This will be more apparent at low layer heights like 0.1mm or smaller. If you can print fine at 0.2mm, but not 0.05mm, then you’re probably not moving quick enough.

7) check your bed is level. Use auto bed levelling if you can.

8) try increasing the z offset - effectively make your print start slightly higher.

Examples of the seasoning process:

Some other useful guides:


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I did 3 things that eliminated my filament jams.

Added an oiler to the filament. Mine was made from a small felt pad placed in a small plastic cup with holes for the filament.

The cup keeps the pad out of the extruder. A few drops of olive oil is applied to the pad every week or so.

Switched to all metal hot end to eliminate the ptfe tube.

Replaced the crappy bushing fan that came with the all metal hot end with a good ball bearing fan and

associated duct to cool the cold part of the all metal hotend.

I run the PLA about 230c. If I run much cooler I get poor inter layer bonding at my print speed and layer height.

Hi there,

I am printing on a Makerbot 5th gen, with the smart extruder. That started to happen to me a bit after many hours and many prints. I took a closer look at the nozel and it looked pretty beat up. I think the higher pressure of “loading” more material through the nozzel was fine, but then the lower pressures of the material during an actual print may cause a bit of back up over time. I might suggest a bit of an increase in temp during your prints, and also maybe look into replacing the nozzle. When I replaced mine, it cleared up a lot of issues.

I hope that helps!

I think the major trouble you are facing is due to an inefficient printing filament. Get a better quality 3D printing filament from a credible source such as ‘3D Printers Bay’ and you can expect better results.