deSap
6
Yes, this is exactly what I did too with my machines.
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Cris:
I currently have a Flashforge Creator X (same platform as your Creator Pro) and the Flashforge Dreamer.
I used to struggle a whole lot with bed adhesion and kapton tape used to be my best option but I hated the process of installing it without bubbles or even wrinkles.
Until I invested on a glass plate.
I went to a local picture frame shop and got them to cut for me several sheets of 9" x 6" glasses of of approximately 2mm thick. It was the single best investment I have ever had!!!
My advise is not to buy just glass sheets, but instead, mirrors. It provides added ability to see the heated nozzles through the reflection and helps in the cleaning process. I also found mirrors extremely useful when disassembling the nozzle parts for cleaning.
Do you need the expensive borosilicate glasses you mentioned? Absolutely NOT! Most glasses at 2mm will be great in terms of heat transference and it is very cheap. If you can’t find a shop that can help you cut to size, you can use those glasses that comes in small picture frames. Look for one that is almost A4 size and it should do.
Lastly, I have found incredible success with printing on glass beds using the following combinations:
1) ABS… Just spray any hard hairspray on the glass. No need for Kapton tape or Blue Painter’s Tape. I prefer this to glue sticks as it is not as messy. BEst part is when you leave the glass plates after a print job to cool, the built models will automatically “POP” out hence you don’t need to scrap them from the glass and risk breaking them. I have a few sheets made hence I just remove them from the hotplate and leave it on a cool floor to cool down and place a new glass sheet on the hotbed. Don’t do Blue Painters tape as I find the models warping upwards at the edges hence deforming your models.
2) PLA… for PLA, I have found Blue Painter’s Tape to be best. It does not stick as well to hairspray but sticks like crazy to this tape.
Hope this helps.
David
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I switched to glass and never looked back. Its really simple too. I use your average standard window glass (although David’s idea of using mirror glass glass is awesome).
I have had no issues with standard glass, despite everyone recommending borosilicate. The glass is cut to the same dimensions as the HBP and use ordinary office clips to hold it in place. For adhesion I use slurry for ABS and ordinary glue stick for PLA.
Using a Creator X btw.
Sebastian
Thanks guys.
So I don’t need specialist glass, just anything 2mm thick. Brilliant.
You all talk about the prints popping off when cool, but I’m mostly printing PLA without heating the bed. Glass still a good idea? I’m trying to do away with the painter’s tape…
Off to DIY store this weekend.
Cris.
2mm is a bit on the thin side. Go for 4mm instead.
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Hi Chris I have a glad bed on my creatirnpro but I am in Australia so I don’t know if this will help.
3Dmigos
12
Sebastian,
Thanks… ABS slurry sounds like a nightmare. Is it?
Cris.
Laird
13
I use standard (in the US) 8x10 plate glass windowpanes, which are cheap and easy. With 8x10 Plate Glass Clips by laird - Thingiverse to hold them to the print bed. They work great, and it’s easy to swap them when you change Kapton tape vs Painter’s tape vs hairspray, etc.
Sebastian:
I recommend trying hair spray instead. I rate it highly because it is incredibly easy to apply (just spray on) and a bottle will last you ages. With slurry ABS, it takes time to prepare and can be messy at times.
Peace.
99 cent store picture frame for me. 4x6, in side by side portrait orientation results in a glass sheet just about 9 inches long.
I’ve had best luck with glue stick, which for me sticks stronger than hairspray so you lose fewer large prints. I also use a car windshield cleaner that targets bug splatter to clean the glue afterwards; it cleans gluestick better than hairspray.
You can certainly use glass, I prefer using 6 inch wide tape to avoid lines and avoid glue / hairspray. I suppose its all personal preference. I don’t like the “clips” people use to attach a sheet of glass to the build plate though, I’ve got a purpose built solution on the way, let me know if you’re interested.
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3Dmigos
17
Fantastic range of comments thanks.
In summary - “Just get some glass”.
Thanks guys.
Cris.
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I have Dreamers, not Creators, but I DO use the borosilicate glass.
“Just some glass” will work, but I like the borosilicate because I don’t have to worry about it when I heat up the bed and run ABS.
It works great, and has increased the quality of my prints a lot.
+1 for 6inch tape. Well worth the investment.
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Feel free to use code EAF9B700D3B4E18 on my site for 10% off at checkout. I’ve got some great 6 inch tape, both standard and high temp / performance tape.
Yeah the hairspray thing… apparently it needs to be a very specific brand of hairspray which isn’t available here in South Africa. I have tried the ones that are available and none of them work. Plus the hairspray option is expensive. I can get 5 litres of acetone for about R100 (approx $9) and that last about a year. I make about 100ml slurry at a time in a jar. This takes a few minutes, then I apply it to the glass with a brush before the print starts. Not exactly work… YMMV.
eckerj
22
I have 3mm mirror glass with hairspray and it works well. I don’t use clips, but little corner pieces that attach to the heatbed posts underneath. I modified them so that they come out level with the print surface of the mirror.
As far as printing with PLA, I imagine if you heat it even just a little bit (50 deg C), then put the mirror/glass in the refridgerator/freezer, the parts will pop off fairly easily.
If that doesn’t work, a razor blade should be able to get the part off with little to no damage to the part.
Brad24L
23
I’ve was using a regular plate glass from Lowes. It’s only 1/8 thick. It worked great but I wanted something a little thicker. Currently I’m testing a 1/4" thick mirror that I had in the garage. I cut a 8x10 panel because I wanted more clearance between the clamps and the extruders. Printed 4 abs corner mounts that I found on Thingiverse. It’s been working pretty well. I cut extra panels so I can prepare the plates on my workbench then swap them out as I need them. Hairspray and glue sticks have worked best for me. One thing to remember before adding glass to your heat bed is to print a spacer for the z axis limit switch. It is needed to adjust for the glass thickness. If you mount your glass without it your extruders will crash into the the glass plate. Look on Thingiverse you will see what I’m talking about.
Hey Cris,
Where are ya, mate?
My glass experience, for what it’s worth:
Tried simple float glass ( windows, photo frame etc ). All worked well for a while then I had one particularly well-adhered print and I actually ripped shards out of the surface of the glass when I popped it off. Bit worrying but good 'n cheap.
Found a supplier of borosilicate - They use it for solid fuel stove windows - Chiswell fireplaces, St. Albans. Expensive - £15 each for 130mm x 140mm. Works really well, especially with Pritt / UHU Purple stuff but I did come into the workshop one day and the plate had split in half! A case of too much adherence, me thinks. Didn’t stop me. Now use B’silicate almost exclusively but right now, the plates have BuildTak on them - Maaan! That stuff is awesome! maybe you should give that a go. No lines! 
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