I am trying to experiment with printing polyethylene oxide (PEO or PEG), however I need to reach hotend temps of around 300C. I was thinking about purchasing an E3D V6 hotend which is capable of up to 400C with a thermocouple. However, I am aware that the makerbot firmware limits me to 280C. Does anyone know a way of getting temperatures above that limit? Also, it would be great if anyone could recommend a good mount for the E3D V6 hotend that would fit my Makerbot Replicator 2X!



1 Like

Unfortunately, if you want to tinker/experiment/mod/upgrade then a makerbot isn’t the best machine. I’m sure it can be done but everything makerbot is proprietary. E3D is a great hotend but if you want to go above 300c then you need a thermocouple. Unless the makerbot board is designed for thermocouple input you will need an amplification board to boost the signal. Not only do you need to adjust the max temp in the firmware but you also need to configure it for the thermocouple(temp tables, pin assignment, etc). Might just want to change firmware (and maybe even the board) all altogether.
I know a lot about this stuff in general but I have no experience with makerbot firmware/hardware specifically. Hopefully someone who had done this to a makerbot will chime in.
Good luck.


Thanks for your reply, my makerbot already uses a thermocouple, so that shouldn’t be a problem. I heard that using sailfish, you could edit the firmware to allow for a higher maximum temperature threshold, but I have not figured out how to do that yet…

1 Like

You can do it by compiling your own Sailfish firmware. But you MUST know what you are doing, and much can go wrong.

Also, your printer is designed with parts that can have trouble with temps above 280.

Read this: Redirecting to Google Groups


You can check this link it may help you


i just happen to bump into it

1 Like

The Makerbot Replicator 2x already has a thermocouple so you can measure the proper temperature. You can also buy just the heater block and replace that instead. Make sure the heater block is the right voltage (24 volts for makerbot) and will not use too much current from your power supply.

Do you know of anyone who has used an external device to heat the extruder, instead of modifying the Sailfish firmware? I have programming experience, but I have never worked with the tools needed to build the firmware.