And i don’t think it’s too loud (i don’t have another printer to compare to), i think it’s just noisy with it’s “music” and fans which can be either annoying or cool depending on my mood. I’m thinking of instead of buying nema 17 dampers, i saw a model on thingiverse of the dampers like the astrosyn ones, and i could maybe print in the Carbon Fiber HTPLA and use a rubber seal to make my own which would silence the printer and with that filament it would probably last!!!
sk4477
17
In my experience, it needs releveling fairly often, yes. At least as compared to the 3x more expensive Ultimaker which i leveled exactly 5 times on the first day I got it (because the assistant confused the heck out of me)… and never since. The Witbox2 was a different story, I couldn’t keep it level at all. Well, it did turn out it was broken.
One thing that helped me was some advice I’ve gotten early on and to my surprise it actually works: observe how the first layer is supposed to look, how squished the line should be. Then relevel as needed without the leveling assistant. Here ist what I do: always print with a few lines of skirt (outline), watch how it lays down the skirt and adjust the 3 knobs as needed while it is printing the skirt. This way releveling never turns into the huge production number.
Also don’t yank too hard on the printbed as this will throw it out of level. And I think taking out the buildplate doesn’t help either. This is where Buildtak comes into play: Its adhesion capabilities are both a blessing and a curse. PLA sticks to it so hard, it easily forgives if the distance between nozzle and Buildtak is a bit too big. (Too close and good luck getting your print off again - without yanking too hard and therefore screwing up the leveling)
Do you think I should try doing the dampers out of that filament? Thanks for the great info
Hey, along with the CF HTPLA, I ordered Taulman Nylon 230 which is supposed to print at 230°C and no heated bed, and Ninjaflex. Have you guys tried these on the idea builder or in general? I could use tips!
Could you give me tips on flexible filament (ninjaflex) please, and have you tried taulman 230?
sk4477
21
If you got a spool of flex material ordered, sure give it a go. Won’t hurt. might work, its used for stuff like this alot.
sk4477
22
I havent been able to find Ninjaflex around here,
In Simplify3D i am using these settings for Filaflex:
230°C nozzle temp
20mm/s print speed, don’t slow down your outside shells and stuff,keep printing at the same low speeds consistently.
First layer i printed at 50%, so really slow.
0,2mm layer height
up the extrusion rate by 15%
35% infill (solid layer over infill needs an extra top layer or two to look good - I am using 5 top layers)
cut back a bit on retraction or even try no retraction at all (i got away with 1mm at 20mm/s)
I’m using on Scotch blue painters tape as ppl were saying it can be imposible to peel off of Buildtak
Good luck & let me know how you fare
Well i mean out of either the nylon or the carbon fiber HTPLA, because i saw this design on thingiverse and the guy had a point, the astrosyn ones are made of aluminum so they are hard which is what makes them work and i can print the o-ring in the middle with the flex filament. Do you think the nylon or carbon fiber HTPLA would last in there and which one would you choose?
sk4477
25
I have not tried any HTPLA nor Nylons so far. Can’t help you with that. Sorry 
If you were to try one, which one would you do? I’m thinking the HTPLA because it’s rigid while the nylon is bendable
Also does your printer vibrate? Mine does at 45-60+ mm/sec with 150mm/s travel speed and i get vibration/ringing lines on cylindrical prints for some reason, i print at 206-210 with hatchbox
sk4477
28
I don’t know enough about these materials to even make a guess.
How about: Try to find a vendor that sells you a sample and try both?
sk4477
29
Yeah, it vibrates. Sometimes things start to resonate on top and it shakes even worse. It’s not the stiffest plattform on the planet and frankly, I think the default speeds are too high. But then again i never bothered to slow it down either, i am quite content with the results it produces.
Cleaning and a bit of sewing machine oil on the x & y axis rods helps make the head move more smoothly, at least in my opinion that should cut back on the vibrating a bit.
I bought both 
and i do oil my axis i’m at 30mm/sec now and 10mm/s on Z-axis which seems to help some but still vibrating a little. I’m going to see if the dampers i make work. I’ll try with Carbon Fiber HTPLA first
Why does this keep happening? I went from 45 mm/sec to 30 and i’ve gotten this 3 times now on 3d benchy boat model
I guess it was because it was printing too slow and clogged. i went up to 60mm/s and prints are working so far
I have used other filaments and have NOT had a problem.
too late but here is my solution with a headed plate 
You were able to print fila flex and wood filament without any modifications except the settings? no upgraded nozzle or anything?
