Suggy
11
Have you try going back to the stock fireware? If you have uploaded the wrong firmware of sailfish this may be your problem!
Suggy
12
At this point I am willing to give anything a try, Can you give details of how to go about this STEP BY STEP.
I know this might seem ridiculous but, I even tried blowing with a hairdryer between the HBP and support platform both cold then hot air. Seemed to be a rise in temperature in the display when blowing hot but. not by much and blowing in cold air did nothing either. The problem existed before upgrading firmware so cant see what reverting back will do but, hey ho Id give it a go.
Desperate or what!!! LOL!
Thank you for your suggestion would need instruction to carry out this operation as I have said I know nothing about these matters really and its all an experience right now.
After firmware upgrade Version Information display shows:-
SAILFISH REPLICATOR1 (cannot see if any other characters are on this line or is it complete?)
Free SRAM 800 ( This line seems to flicker )
Thing 32084 r1220M
Firmware Version 7.6
This could well be my problem! Willing to accept a blunder on my part; the above information would mean more to the kind people trying to help than me. Lets hope this solves the problem.
Cheers for all you`re comments and advice.
If I have somehow selected the wrong firmware I`m sure someone will assist.
Suggy
14
Sorry cannot help with uploading the firmware as I had someone else do mine for me
No problem was not even sure you can go back to original firmware. Maybe someone else could help.
Thanks for your input anyway good to see people having an interest.
Can you measure the voltage at TP27 when the HBP is at room temperature? that’s a tiny copper spot just next to R65, which is next to where the HBP plugs in to mightboard. Put the other end of your meter on one of the ground pads on the ATMEGA 1280 IO just below that.
Hi Jon,
Thank you for youre instructions here are the results. Now to make sure im telling you the right information Ive included photos as Im not an electronic`s wiz as you know by now!!!
I have access to a meter but, only use it for continuity testing so that said details are as follows:
Room temp:- 77.5F
Meter set at 20v DC. Reading taken at points TP27 as you`re photo to ground on ATMEGA 1280 this gives a reading of: 0.47-0.49v.
Also took picture of board showing three small red LEDs light dont know if this is relevant but, to much information may be better than none. Hope this helps.
and the screen said that was around 200 degrees i expect? That suggests your mightyboard is fine, and the problem is elsewhere.
can you take a photo of the component side of your HBP? you’ll need to take it off for that.
Some great enhancements, already planned to upgrade parts as viewed on you tube.
I have only printed out parts from thingyverse using Pla on a cold platform due to iissues with the HBP but, this seemed to work didnt know I had a fault till trying some ABS when I discovered cold and ABS dont mix. Printed load of bits but found I needed to print on a raft ( until recently thought that was something that floated on water! but, thanks to people like yourself I hope I`m starting to learn a thing or two. Just need to get things up and running properly before sending for more bits such as the extruder feed device which I ordered.
Thanks
Hello again,
Here are the pictures as requested gather you meant the side showing the solder tracks hence taking it of the mounts?
If Ive given wrong pictures then Ill retake later.
Thank you your efforts are appreciated!!
Just realised the pictures you wanted are of the HBP (Fool I should learn to read properly!!)
Here are the correct images I hope.
What’s that “Bed temp” thing on the case?
Suggy
22
Don’t know if this is aimed at my machine but I guess it is
It’s so I can alter the bed temp on the fly.
ie I some time have a separate temp meter taped to the bed and if I get different readings from the display screen I can alter the temp without restarting the print. Control panel only lets you alter the temp on the hot end and not the bed.
Hope this make sence?
Hi Jon,
Sorry but you`re comments just gone straight over my head!!
Can you clarify? Further progress with CTC seems, they have agreed to send out a new HBP shows dogged persistence may pay off. Dont know if a new HBT will cure the problem but, I would still like to discover the culprit behind this fault whether that be something I am doing wrong or indeed a manufacturing problem in the hope that this could help anyone else who suffers the same in the future. That is if youre still agreeable? Don`t know when they would send out the new part or even at this point if I will actually receive it, only just received the email seconds ago.
Could the problem be within the capacitor on the HBP ? I am lead to believe that if that is faulty it could give erroneous reading from the thermistor.
If all else fails and even a new HBP wont fix the problem, I may if it is possible have to use a separate heat bed system completely independent of the motherboard. I would imagine this is possible as I have seen this:- MakerBot Replicator 2x Build Plate Heater KEENOVO Silicone Heating Pad 130W 24V | eBay? MakerBot Replicator 2x Build Plate Heater KEENOVO Silicone Heating Pad 130W 24V.
Only seems to have four wires though and I`m not sure as to how it would be wired I assume I would need a method of controlling the temperature and a way of monitoring via some sort of separate display. Now am I getting carried away with myself and just talking rubbish!
I think if I am right that the bed temp thing you may be talking about is just a normal home thermometer it was pictured just to show the ambient room temperature nothing else. It is not part of the original CTC printer or any addition.
What is the voltage between the 5V and GND pad on the HBP when plugged in?
(Ignore previous comment; mixed up with the photos)
Hi sorry for the delay in replying had to go out.
Just took measurement:
Meter set at 20v dc measured from 5v to ground on HBP this gave a reading of 4.9v I assume that`s about right! I imagine that the fault if there is one could be further down the line.
Dont know what the capacitors role in the circuit is?
Am I just jabbering junk please feel free to say so; just trying to use logic could be completely wrong!
The capacitor is just for decoupling, it’s not significant (unless it’s faulty, unlikely).
Unplug and measure the resistance between the 5V and the SIG pads, and also the resistance between GND and SIG. You’ll want your meter in the ~100K range.
Hi Jon,
My Meter has`nt a 100k range so took readings set at 200k
Then borrowed another meter so I will give two sets of readings one from each as I am not familiar with meter reading I have attached photos of both types of meter as well as settings used.
First meter Vici set in kilohm range Reads as follows: (This is More of an auto reading meter also has a auto range but I set it to kilohms hope thats right!)
5v to Signal = 4.694K
Signal to Ground yellow wire = 0.518K
Signal to Ground green wire = 0.511K
Readings from second meter set at 200K as follows:
5V to Signal = 4.7
Signal to ground yellow wire = 00.5
Signal to ground green wire = 00.5
Not sure but both meters seem to agree I think!!!
HBT Disconnected from machine when readings taken.
Hope these are correct settings
Ignore display on meters just notice settings if that makes sence.
There you are then. Your NTC is either knackered, or the wrong sort. It should be around 100-120 K ohms at room temperature, and its reading 0.5k.
Well thats a surprise! I purchased and fitted the new one when the HBP wouldnt work with the original as I had read and seen on you tube that the original should be replaced due to inaccuracy issues. Is it possible that BOTH original and replacement thermistors are faulty How unlucky is that!
I purchased the 100K NTC 3950 Thermistor from ebay (" Ideal for 3D printers ") obviously NOT!!!
I can`t thank you enough for the time and effort you have put into diagnosing this problem!
I will send for a new thermistor difficult to find a genuine supplier can you recommend?
I will keep you informed should I get a new part and fit. Hope our little adventure is also helpful to anyone else who ends up having a similar problem; GOOD to know there are people like yourself out there prepared to help people with little or no knowledge and wish to pursue new hobbies ect.
Thanks again.
PS. Curiosity killing me! So Ive cut off the thermistor and taken a reading straight from the component legs Ive taken a picture of the result ??? Am I wrong or is that near 100K?
Can you get the printer on at all? If so you can go to the general settings and do a factory reset on the printer it will reset all to defaults including the firmware. Also if its not working you can try and contact the seller you bought it off and get replacement parts as it should have a years warranty i got a new motherboard when my USB chip blew in mine for free.
