Best 3D Printer for a Budget of 1,350

Enza3D · 2016-06-29T17:15:57.000Z

Yep, leveling is definitely a little tricky with both extruders, especially because my left one is tad bit lower than the right one. And the oozing, always the oozing. Unfortunately for the original poster has set, these issues will be unavoidable with a dual extrusion machine as far I know of.

Johnnyo1012 · 2016-06-29T17:23:21.000Z

If I got a flash forge dreamer, does it except 3rd party filament? Do I have to use their software to print or can I use any G-Code software. I noticed Da Vinci says to have a separate extruder from the 2 it comes with in the Duo to print water soluble material. Do I need that for this one? Does it have a heated bed? I like the price of the Dreamer and how it looks.

Enza3D · 2016-06-29T17:26:55.000Z

It readily accepts 3rd-party filament; they have no DRM on it, so as long as the printer can reach the temperature required to extrude the filament it can print anything you throw at it. I’ve printed just about every kind of filament that’s on the market with it (with the exception of polycarbonate and some of the very expensive exotic filaments like Tungsten ABS) and it’s handled them all nicely. You don’t have to use their slicing software but you do need to make sure you install the right drivers on your computer or other slicing programs won’t be able to connect to it. I use it exclusively with Simplify 3D and have had no issue with it.

The extruders it comes with can print PVA and HIPS out of the box, but I would suggest upgrading the nozzles to something a bit more durable if you plan to print specialty filament on it. The metal PLA filaments (CoppeFill, Protopasta Stainless), carbon fiber PLA, and filaments derived from wood (Timberfil) are particularly abrasive and chew through brass and aluminum fairly quickly.

Johnnyo1012 · 2016-06-29T17:33:03.000Z

I only plan to print Normal PLA, ABS, and Water Soluble Material. It should be able to do that right?

Enza3D · 2016-06-29T17:36:46.000Z

By water soluble, are you referring to PVA? If that’s the case, then yes, it can print all three.

Johnnyo1012 · 2016-06-29T17:45:17.000Z

I want to print PLA In one extruder and water soluble material in the other so I can wash away the support. Is that PVA?

Enza3D · 2016-06-29T17:53:05.000Z

Most likely, I can’t think of any other water-soluble filaments off-hand. But that will work fine!

Johnnyo1012 · 2016-06-29T18:00:27.000Z

What about buying a refurbished one? Is that still good?

Enza3D · 2016-06-29T18:07:16.000Z

Mine is actually a refurbished one, so yep!

Johnnyo1012 · 2016-06-29T18:10:45.000Z

Great Thanks!

Enza3D · 2016-06-29T18:16:09.000Z

No problem! Feel free to reach out to me in the future if you need help with it

Johnnyo1012 · 2016-06-29T21:16:51.000Z

Thanks!

Johnnyo1012 · 2016-06-29T21:48:04.000Z

Can you set different temperatures for different extruders. Can one be 230 and the other 200 to print to colors that melt and different temps.?

Enza3D · 2016-06-30T01:16:37.000Z

Yep, the extruders can be controlled independently of one another!

Johnnyo1012 · 2016-06-30T13:12:45.000Z

Can I print NijaFlex? Is NijaFlex ABS or PLA?

Enza3D · 2016-06-30T13:20:42.000Z

Yep! I’ve printed several things in NinjaFlex, you just have to adjust the settings accordingly. NinjaFlex belongs in the TPE/TPU plastics family; it’s neither PLA or ABS but it’s own thing entirely.

I’ve successfully printed the following filaments (all the prints you see on my Hub were done on the Dreamer):

CopperFill & BronzeFill
Timberfill
PLA
PLA-PHA
ABS
BioSilk
NinjaFlex & SemiFlex
Watson
Carbon Fiber PLA
Stainless Steel PLA
HIPS & PVA

I’ve attached an image of a very small print that was done with NinjaFlex, next to a penny for reference.

20160630_091826.jpg3264×1836 1.47 MB

Johnnyo1012 · 2016-06-30T13:30:42.000Z

Thanks, What does carbon fiber PLA and Stainless Steel PLA Mean? Does it have those things in it to make it stronger?

Enza3D · 2016-06-30T13:45:14.000Z

The stainless steel PLA (SSPLA) isn’t really stronger than normal PLA, but it’s more dense and can be polished to look like stainless steel. It’s made by adding steel powder to PLA while it’s molten, so that when it get extruded into filament, the filament is a mix of steel and PLA. I can upload some pictures of that later so you have an idea of what it looks like, and some examples can be seen on Proto-Pasta’s website (Stainless Steel PLA | Metal-Filled PLA Filament – ProtoPlant, makers of Proto-pasta). It’s definetely a lot tougher and harder than normal PLA, or even the copper/bronze PLA composites. When I sand Stainless Steel PLA, it takes a lot longer and chews through sandpaper like there’s no tomorrow.

Carbon Fiber PLA (CFPLA) is significantly more rigid than normal PLA, so it’s great for drones and other RC vehicles. Like the stainless steel PLA, it’s made by mixing little strands of carbon fiber into the PLA before turning it into a filament. I use the one made by Proto-Pasta (Black Carbon Fiber Composite | Carbon Fiber PLA Filament – ProtoPlant, makers of Proto-pasta). Unlike the Stainless Steel PLA, the Carbon Fiber PLA finishes really nicely with about the same amount of work it takes to sand normal PLA.

I would recommend upgrading the nozzles if you plan on running a lot of exotics through any machine though, they are not kind to the stock brass.

I have attached a picture of a Carbon Fiber, Copper, and Stainless Steel piece I did then polished for reference

20160630_093833.jpg1563×2031 1.58 MB

Enza3D · 2016-06-30T13:46:01.000Z

One other thing with these filaments, watch for clogs! Any of the metal based ones love sticking to the nozzles so it’s important to unload them once the print is done.

Johnnyo1012 · 2016-06-30T13:58:50.000Z

Do I need to upgrade the nozzles if I print PLA, ABS, PVA, Carbon Fiber, and Stainless Steel, and NijaFlex?